A two week winter road trip around the Scottish Highlands
In January 2024, I spent 10 days exploring and hiking my way around the Scottish Highlands in a Roadsurfer Campervan.
I got incredibly lucky with the weather and I was treated some of the most incredible, snow-covered conditions I have ever experienced here in the UK, including witnessing a sunrise cloud inversion.
In this blog outline what I got up over those 10 days and give my option and honest thoughts on visiting Scotland at this time of year, alongside using the Roadsurfer van.
Finding Roadsurfer
Their Scotland depot is located on the western outskirts of Edinburgh just past the airport.
Reaching it was very straightforward and hassle free. The depot is located in a small industrial estate which is 800m off a dual carriageway.
There are bus stops on either side of the road (connected by a bridge) which are regularly serviced by buses which take 30-40 minutes to get into the centre of Edinburgh.
The pick up process was smooth and the staff were friendly and helpful in getting me accustomed to the van.
A big bonus was the food and equipment storage area which the depot has. Essentially it is a area for all the non-perishable items which other Roadsurfer users have left when returning their van.
I was able to grab some of the key essentials such as cooking items (oil, spices, salt and pepper, sauces), cleaning products, alongside dried food.
You are not guaranteed to have the same choice as what I did, but it’s a lovely touch and meant I saved having to buy numerous items.
The Van
The van I had for my 12-day trip was Knaus Boxlife Couples Cottage.
The two-person vehicle has all the bells and whistles and is the perfect choice for touring the Scottish Highlands.
Big enough to stand up and walk around in, The Box Life is essentially a mini-home on wheels which was incredibly cosy, spacious, and functional.
The van had:
Kitchen area with two cooking hobs and sink
A cubicle which contains a sink, toilet and shower
A table and seating area, alongside two camping chairs and a camping table
Two captain’s chairs up front which spin around
A double bed which moves up and down
Tons of storage
A Diesel heater
100 litre water tank
Separate leisure battery
Large display screen with Bluetooth and Google play
My 12 day trip
Before I outline my trip, I will say I am an avid hiker who loves adventure and came up to Scotland to hike as much as possible.
Because of that I spent the first five days chasing the weather, driving back and forth and racking up the miles.
Having a degree of flexibility with you Scotland trip is key, the weather is not only temperamental and ever changing, but due the mountainous and coastal topography it can be incredibly localised.
Continuously monitor the weather using Met Office and MWIS and don’t be afraid to change your plans.
Also dont get down hearted by the forecast and completely abandon your plans, on several occasions they forecasts proved not to be 100% accurate and I woke up to a delightful sunrise as opposed the cloud which was forecast.
Day 1: Cairngorms National park
After picking up the van on a 4pm I did a big food shop before driving three hours north to the Cairngorms National Park ready to tackle a sunrise hike up Sgòr Gaoith.
Unfortunately, the majority of campsites are closed in January so I spent the night in car park at the base of the hike. The thermometer read -7 degrees Celsius, but as I had a diesel heater it was lovely and toasty
I met up with James Coutts (@scottishMunroJourney) and we set off shortly after 6am.
The journey up was a relatively straightforward and easy to follow. It took us around 2 hours 15 minutes to make the 8km ascent which involved just under 800m of elevation gain, half of which was on snow.
We were treated to an incredible sunrise and cloud inversion which seemed to cover all of the peaks in southern, central, and north western highlands. This made the hike much sweeter as we had originally planned to hike in the southern highlands but changed our plans last minute.
We arrived back down to the van before midday, in total the hike 16km and took just under 6 hours with plenty of stops. You can read more about the hike up Sgòr Gaoith here.
I spent the afternoon taking in the lower level aspects of the Cairngorms, visiting some of the various lakes which ended up being frozen over, before driving up to the ski centre to watch the sunset.
After a rather large detour via Inverness to pick up some crampons from Go-Outdoors, I drove up and around Loch Ness to Shiel Bridge ready to tackle my second hike of the trip.
Day 2: Five sisters of Kintail
Today hike was a one-way ridge walk which tackled three munros and required two cars.
I was picked up by my long-term friend Matt Waterson, leaving my van at The Pitstop at Kintail, which Is located at the end of the hike.
We started the hiked the from the side of the A87 at 8:45am, catching the sunrise on the way up the mountain before spending the rest of the day navigating the snow-capped ridges.
The day started with some very atmospheric conditions which involved banks of low mist and cloud. The cloud quickly enveloped the route shortly after we bagged our first munro, and didn’t really shift for the rest of the hike.
Fortunately, the clouds eventually cleared when we were on the final peak of the day and we were treated not only a magnificent view but an intense sunset.
We got back down to my van 2 hours after sunset, in total we had spent nearly 9 hours up in the hills, hiking 1,603m of elevation gain over 15km.
I then convinced Matt to putt off his tax returns join me for another hike the following day. So I then made the 2 hour drive south down to Ballachulish.
Day 3: Schoolhouse Ridge, Ballachulish
I once again met up with Matt to tackle my third hike in three days. This one was an epic circular route which tackle two munros high above Ballachulish.
We set off just before 7:30am and the ascent was brutal from the outset, climbing nearly 800m over 2km. Fortunately, we had beautiful conditions and epic views back over Loch Leven and towards Ben Nevis on the way up.
We made it up to the first peak just in time for sunrise and soaked in the views before taking the sweeping, snow-capped ridgeline up to the first munro of the day,
Visibility was excellent, there wasn’t a cloud in the sky, and the view from Sgorr Dhearg was Magnificent. The 1,024m munro offers sensational 360-degree panoramic views of the Scottish Highlands including mountain, sea, and loch.
We could see as far as Northern Ireland, out to the Cuillin ridge, and all across the highlands. It was some of the most special views I have ever witnessed.
After summiting the second peak of the day, which once again offered beautiful views we hastily descended back down to the car so Matt could shoot off to Edinburgh. In total the 15km hike involves nearly 1,400m of elevation gain and took us just over 6 hours.
Beinn a' Bheithir via Schoolhouse Ridge Hike Guide
I then spent the night up in front of the beautiful and iconic Buachaille Etive Mòr, where I not only had a beautiful sunset, but also managed to capture a faint glow of the northern lights around midnight.
Day 4: Beinn a'Chrulaiste, Glencoe
The weather forecast had predicted a cloud inversion so unfortunately for my legs there was no rest day.
As it was mid-January and the sun didn't rise until 8:50am, I was bale to get plenty of sleep.
As I had already amassed plenty of miles and elevation in the legs, I opted to head up Beinn a'Chrulaiste.
Standing at only 857m/2,811ft, Beinn a'Chrulaiste may not be a Munro, but what it lacks in a little height it certainly makes up for in panoramic views, offering up arguably some of the best of any Scottish mountain.
I started the hike from the roadside at 7:50am, ascending up the steep western slope through the mist.
I reached the popular viewpoint located half way up the peak in just over half an hour, but unfortunately it was still covered in mist, with the summit of the Buachaille only just visible.
Rather than wait and hope for it to clear like the three other photographers who were already there, I decided to push on and try and make it above the clouds.
I’m glad I did, as within 5 minutes I had broken through the mist. The views were sensational and I honestly didn’t know where to look. The sunrise was in 10 minutes and I was in complete panic mode, trying to hike, fly the drone, and capture content on my phone at the same time.
I ploughed on, capturing the sunrise on the slopes around half a kilometre below the summit. Upon reaching the top I was greeted with a majestical 360 degree panoramic view over the Highlands. The mountain tops were like castles in the sky, protruding triumphantly from a blanket of white cloud.
I had the summit to myself and decided to soak in the views for a good hour before heading down.
Day 5: Buachaille Etive Beag, Glencoe
The forecast showed the possibility of a sunrise with the weather deteriorating in the afternoon, so I decided upon another hike.
This time I decided to tick off two of the more ‘easier’ munros in the Glencoe area.
These were located on Buachaille Etive Beag, which is often overlooked in favour of its more popular neighbour.
I set off from the A82 roadside at 7:30am, Following the well build path up the mountain. After crossing a few sections of icy snow, I branched left at the bealach and made it up to the summit of Stob Coire Raineach just in time for sunrise.
The patchy low cloud made for some very atmospheric shots but the wind was bitterly cold so I didn’t hang around for long.
I dropped back down to the bealach, before making the steep ascent up to the second Munro of the day. The snow had hardened and was very icy, so the micro spikes and ice axe were essential.
Fortunately, the half a dozen or so people who headed up there for sunrise were on their way back down and after navigating the snow capped ridge I had the summit to myself.
The Munro Stob Dubh offers majestical views down Loch Etive and of the surrounding peaks of Glencoe. The cloud was still holding off, so I decided to find some shelter from the wind and soak it all while munching on a ham, cheese, and coleslaw roll.
I decided to break into a bit of jog back down the mountain, going from the summit to the car park in a little over half an hour. In total the hike was 9k, involved just over 1,000m of elevation gain and took me just under 5 hours
I had a quick coffee in the van before braving a cold water freshen up in the crystal clear pools at the meeting of the Three waters in Glencoe.
Day 6: Fort William
The weather forecast was deteriorating so I decided to have a day off from the hills, getting some work and admin done around Fort William before heading over to the Corpach Shipwreck for sunset.
This is located just outside of Fort William on the way to Mallaig. Free parking is available next to the HM Coastguard centre which is 100m from the shoreline where the whip is grounded,
The weather had cleared and the visibility was excellent. So, I had unbelievable views of a snow capped Ben Nevis in the distance.
With the weather forecast taking a turn I then made the decision to make the long drive over to the Isle of Skye to try and see some of the lower-level sights.
Day 7: Isle of Skye
After spending the night being battered by the high winds, I started the day with a sunrise hike up the Old Man of Storr.
Having been up here several times it was amazing to see it covered by a blanket of snow. Unbelievably I had the place to myself, and I was treated to a very atmospheric sunrise with lots of low clouds and sleet.
From The Old Man of Storr I proceeded up the coast to Mealt Falls, a beautiful waterfall which drops off the sheer sided cliffs into the ocean.
With the roads being very icy I made the decision to skip the Quiraing, Instead I opted to make the long 90 minute journey west to try and catch the sunset from the western side of Skye.
I made it over to Neist point lighthouse just in time for sunset. This spot is extremely popular with photographers and for good reason. The sun sets behind the dramatic steep sided peninsula with views out to the Outer Hebrides.
In the brief 20 minute period I was up on the cliffs, I was treated to had crazy weather conditions which saw three bursts of sleet and snow before the incredible view disappeared
The forecast for the next two days was heavy snow, so I decided to head further south to be closer to civilisation and the main trunk road on the isle of Skye.
Day 8: Isle of Skye
I parked up off the main road in Sligachan, Expecting to wake up to a beautiful view the Black Cuillin Ridge. Instead I woke to a complete whiteout and 4 inches of snow.
Not wanting to get stuck on Skye, I slowly made my way back down to Broadford where I waited out the snow in the Coffee Bothy. This cosy little café is located just off the main road and serves delicious sandwiches, cakes, and excellent coffee.
By some miracle the ferry back to the mainland was still running. Fortunately, I was staying with a friend and the snow covered roads were no issue for the Knaus Boxlife.
Neist point
Neist point
Day 9: Glenfinnan Viaduct
More snow had fallen over night, so we made the short journey from Arisiag down to the iconic Glenfinnan Viaduct.
Famous for being the viaduct which the Hogwarts Express goes over in the Harry Potter films, the place was coated in sheet of snow.
My good friend and local adventure guide Matt dug out the cross-country skis and headed up the valley while I soaked in the magical views. Seeing it covered in snow was once thing, but the distinct lack of other people made it even more special.
That afternoon back in Arisaig we were treated to an incredible sunset which lit up the Rum Cullin Ridge.
Day 10: The Mamores
The forecast was for a mixed bag of weather with blanket of low cloud, snow, and a 40% chance of cloud free peaks. We awoke to blue skies and instantly regretted deciding to time our hike for around sunset.
Today we had planned to tackle a hike in the Mamores mountain range above Fort William, ticking off the munros of Mullach nan Coiren and of Stob Ban.
Setting off shortly before midday, the blue skies quickly faded and we found ourselves climbing up through low cloud and snowfall.
However, we got lucky just beneath the summit of the first munro as the low cloud clears and revealed some moody views of the central highlands.
The cloud continued to come and go, revealing some atmospheric views back towards Glencoe.
After avoiding the worst of the weather for most of the day, it finally caught up with us for sunset. The second Munro, Stob Ban became engulphed in cloud, meaning we had to descend in very dark and white out conditions
We got back to the car two hours after sunset having hiked 12.5km with 1,250m of elevation in under 6 hours.
Day 11: Return to Edinburgh
Unfortunately, the weather had taken a significant turn for the worse. Low cloud, rain and gale force winds were battering the highlands. With Storm Isha due to hit Scotland over the next few days, conditions were set to deteriorate even further.
As I didn't want to end up stuck in the highlands, I decided to cut my trip short by a few days, making the decision to drive back to Edinburgh to drop the van off the next day.
On the way I stopped buy the Kingshouse hotel to capture one last photo of the infamous stag which roams the car park.
This turned out to be a great decision as the day after I got back home, there was a significant amount of travel disruption caused by Storm Isha.
Summary of the Trip
Overall I had one incredible trip from which I have memories which will last a lifetime.
I got lucky with the weather during the first week, but took full advantage of the conditions, making sure I got up into the mountains and hiked every day.
It goes to show that Scotland can be a destination for all seasons and that you don’t need to hibernate and become a recluse during the darker and colder months on the year.
Lots of people often focus on the negatives of the winter months but there are also some incredible benefits.
Sunrise in January in the highlands is between 8:20am and 9am, so your sleep won’t be affected if you did want to catch sunrise.
The short daylight hours also means that you can easily spend a whole day hiking up in the mountains and catch both sunrise and sunset.
There’s also a distinct lack of other people.
This means that parking is a breeze, tourist hotspots are delightfully quiet, and you will barely see another person up on the hills.
If you do get fortunate weather then the winter conditions will make your Scottish Highland experience even more magical.
Whether it’s the snow-capped peaks, the alpenglow cause by the winter sun, or the possibility of seeing a cloud inversion, theres something special about exploring Scotland in winter.
You always get back to your vehicle with rosy red cheeks, a wry smile, and with the feeling that you have truly earned a hearty meal or beer.
The only negatives about exploring Scotland at this time of the year are the lack of campsites and facilities which will be open.
I also had to work around the sub-zero temperatures, which meant that hosepipes were frozen and I couldn’t refill my water tank.
You can counter act this by researching what campsites are open, breaking up your trip by booking accommodation, or making use of the numerous public washroom facilities that are available across the Highlands.
I ended up using the showers in the Glencoe ski centre four times across my trip.
The freedom to roam combined with the distinct lack of tourists also means there are plenty of beautiful spots which you will be able park up at and utilise as a place to stay (Providing there are no signs saying you can’t).
Just remember to leave no trace, not stay for more than a a couple of nights, and if you get asked to move on, do so without a fuss.
My Experience in the Van
I will finish by saying that this trip would not have been possible without the Roadsurfer vehicle.
I loved my time driving and staying in it. So much so that if I didn’t have a house, fiancé, and dog at home, I would have considered buying one and moving up to Scotland.
It was a major upgrade on the basic VW T5 Camper which I own and was the main reason I was able to comfortably and safely tour the Scottish highlands at this time of year.
The van was automatic, was a pleasure to drive, and the mileage was pretty decent. I had 5+ inches of snow at one point and the van handled it with very little fuss.
The bed was very comfortable and has plenty of space for two people. However, if anyone is over 6ft then they will struggle with the length of the bed. I am 5 ft 10 and I was almost touching both sides.
Despite the temperature dropping to -7 overnight, the diesel heater meant that the van was toastier than the inside of samosa.
So If I can comfortably sleep through that, then you shouldn’t have an issue for the rest of the year.
Across the entire trip I didn’t stay at one campsite or use the electric hook up. I had no issues with power, managing to keep my two drones, laptop, and camera gear charged throughout the trip using the separate leisure battery which has serval USB ports.
The leisure battery is charged when you drive and you can monitor the levels through the onboard display.
The table and sitting area is brilliant, The two chairs in the front spin around and the table can extend. I was comfortably able to sit, eat and work on my laptop in the evenings with plenty of space.
I did have an issue with the navigation display and speakers, which kept tripping early on into my trip.
Roadsurfer were excellent with dealing with this issue, and as soon I told them about it, they arranged for an identical van to be driven all the way up Glencoe from Edinburgh for me.
The vans come with a kitchen set which has almost everything you need. The only thing it lacks is a decent non-stick frying pan, I foresaw this and brought one up with me.
I honestly couldn’t recommend the vehicle and the company enough and would whole heartedly recommend them if you are considering exploring Scotland by van in the future.
You can find their website here: https://roadsurfer.com
