Vancouver to Calgary Road trip via the Canadian Rockies - A detailed three week guide
Often described as a bucket list road trip, the drive from Vancouver to Calgary is arguably one of the most scenic in the world.
This sea to summit drive passes through some of the majestical and impressive landscapes you’ll ever lay eyes on.
Because the road trip encompasses such a vast area, passes through multiple national and provincial parks, alongside having an endless list of things to see and do, planning the road trip can be rather overwhelming.
This guide will be based on my three-week Vancouver to Calgary road trip which I did in July 2024. It will also call upon my two prior trips to Vancouver alongside advice which I have been passed down from residents of both Vancouver and Calgary.
I have suggested durations for each location which you can shorten or extend to fit your own schedule. You can also reverse the route if you are planning on starting in Calgary.
Within the guide I outline everything you will need to know prior to departing, alongside a route suggestion, and a detailed google map which includes the must visit locations in each area and places to stay.
If you have any questions then feel free to drop me an email or a message on Instagram.
How much time do you need to for a Vancouver to Calgary road trip?
I recommend spending at least 10 days on this road trip to fully appreciate the stunning landscapes which you will pass through. However, 10 days will still feel rushed as you'll likely spend a significant amount of time driving. If possible, aim for two to three weeks to enjoy the journey at a more relaxed pace.
What is the best time of year to Complete the Vancouver to Calgary road trip
The best time to complete this road trip is between the months of May and October (late Spring and early Autumn). This is because many business and campsites are only open during this period.
The ideal months are July and August as there weather is the best, however this is when it will be busiest and your most likely to be affected by wildfires. Wildfire season is between the end of June and mid-August. And can have a significant affect on air quality, visibility, and can lead to trails, roads, and places being closed.
If you visit in May and June, the weather will be more unpredictable and there might still be a significant amount of snow on the mountains which may affect some of the activities and hiking you may wish to do.
If you go in September and October the weather will be less predictable, but it will be quieter than the summer months. If you visit in Late autumn you will also get to see the changing of the seasons and the incredible colours which come with Autumn.
I undertook this three week road trip in July between the 8th and the 29th of July, I had three weeks of sunshine and it only rained once. While this was incredible, there were significant wildfires during the second half of my trip. Unfortunately one of these destroyed the town of Jasper and caused monumental destruction. Alongside this tragedy it also caused significant amount of smoke which affected visibility and air quality.
The best way to travel from Vancouver to Calgary
In my opinion the best way to undertake this road trip would be in a campervan. It will allow for the greatest flexibility alongside being significantly cheaper and easier than booking accommodation.
I used Roadsurfer for my trip who were absolutely faultless. They have recently opened in North America, have a depot in both Vancouver and Calgary , and have of different vehicles to choose from.
They offer unlimited mileage (The road trip is over 2000km), and for a extra fee you can have the option of a one way rental.
I had a liberty lodge RV, it was incredibly spacious and it was the perfect companion on my road trip
Not only did it have everything I needed but its was a reasonable width, meaning it wasn’t a hassle to drive and I could actually park it in normal sized space.
I also love that the van was a dark grey and the branding was dark and quite subtle, so much so that I got asked if it was my own van in serval occasions. Other vans were white and plastered in branding and pictures which made them look very tacky.
The automatic van was can seat and sleep up to four people had everything I needed for the road trip including
Two swivel seats alongside two fixed seats and a swivel table.
2 large sleeping areas (In the van and in the pop up roof)
Cruise control, reversing camera, Bluetooth, alongside Apple and android CarPlay
Spacious kitchenette area with a sink, two stove gas hob, fridge, and lots of storage
Wet room with a hot water shower and toilet
Parking air conditioning unit which runs off a generator
Mosquito nets and black out blinds for all windows
190 Watt solar panel
Pick up in Vancouver was incredibly easy, the depot is located close to the airport and they even had a selection of items (including food and kitchen equipment) which other users have left and you can take with you. The only thing which the van was lacking a proper frying pan, which I ended up buying from a Walmart for $15.
You can get a discount of £75 or CAD$125 on your Roadsurfer booking if you use the code: KNIGHT2024 (Valid until 1/1/25)
Alternatively Rent a car
Another option is to rent a car. Although initially cheaper than renting a motorhome, it could end up being more expensive depending on what your sleeping arrangements will be.
Id would work out cheaper if you ended up staying in campsites, which tend to end to range between $5 and $40 per night. However if you are staying in accommodation then the price of your trip will skyrocket, as accommodation in the National parks is not only very limited, but also very expensive.
If you are booking a rental car online, I personally recommend and use Discover Cars. They search for both local and international companies, so you get the best deal!
Places you will visit on your Vancouver to Calgary road trip
I did this trip starting in Vancouver and finishing in Calgary, however you can easily do it in reverse. These are some of the best places I passed through and which the guide will focus on;
Vancouver and Golden Ears Provincial park
Sea to Sky Highway & Garibaldi Provincial park
Wells Grey Provincial Park
Mount Robson
Jasper National Park
Icefields Parkway
Lake Louise
Yoho National Park
Banff National Park
Canmore and Kananaskis Country.
Although this guide is for a three week road trip, I have suggested durations or each location which you can shorten or extend to fit your own schedule.
Things to know before you depart
National Park Fees
This guide involves entering and passing through three National Parks (Jasper, Banff, and Yoho) all of which require paying an entry fee.
As of 2024 to visit a national parks it costs $11 per adult per day, or $22 per family/group (This covers up to 7 people in one vehicle).
If you are planning on spending more than 6 days in National Parks across your trip then it would make more sense to purchase a yearly discovery pass. For individuals this costs $75.25 and for a family/group pass it costs $151.25.
Although you can buy the pass online through the Parks Canada website, I would recommend just purchasing them at the entry gate to Jasper National Park. This is just incase your trip is affected by the weather, wildfires or you end up changing your plans.
If you are unsure of how many days you will spend in National Parks, you can purchase daily passes, if you then go over 6 days you are able to pay the extra fee to upgrade your day passes to a year pass.
It worth noting that Glacier, Revelstoke, and Kootenay National parks are also located in the Canadian Rockies. Although they don’t feature in this guide, all three are easy to access and look insanely beautiful.
Once you get a pass you must keep it on display on your car windshield at all times.
Columbia Icefield centre
Kananaskis Conservation Pass
If you plan on visiting Kananaskis County provincial park then you will need to purchase a conservation pass.
As of 2024, the pass costs $15 per day for 1 vehicle and covers all who are inside. If you are visiting for 6 days or more then you will have to buy a yearly pass, this costs $90 and registers up to 3 vehicles.
Unlike the national park pass, which you can buy on the park gates in person, the conservation pass can only be bought online via the Alberta Parks website.
Aside from Kananaskis, you do not need to pay a fee to enter any other provincial park.
Where to stay on your Canadian Road Trip
As I had a motorhome and brought a tent, all the accommodation options I recommend on this road trip are either campgrounds, recreation sites, or backcountry campsites.
The accommodation options for motorhomes can get confusing as the rules vary depending on what province or territory you are in.
In National Parks and Provincial Parks, vehicle camping (RVs, Motorhomes, and cars) is only allowed in designated areas. These designated areas are usually campsites and cost between ($10-40) depending on where you are and which Canadian province you are in.
Outside of National and Provincial parks this rule varies and there are plenty of places where you can stay for free.
Campsites
I’m not some one who usually advocates having a fixed schedule, as you never know what the weather will do and if you like a place or not, However if you are travelling in summer and are visiting the National Parks, I would advise booking as many campsites as you can as far in advance, especially on Fridays and Saturdays.
This is because campsites in the Canadian Rockies get booked up very quickly, especially on weekends (when Canadian residents tend to adventure). So you don’t want to be left disappointed by having to move on sooner than you would like or skip a place entirely.
If the campsites are booked up or you don’t want to pre-book them, then don’t panic, there are plenty of first come, first served campsites located across the Canadian Rockies. The only issue with these campsites is that you may have to get there early to secure a space.
All of the of the campsites which I recommend in this blog are operated by the Parks Canada Authorities. The benefit of choosing these campsites is that the money is re-invested into the national parks.
You can quickly and easily make a reservation through the following websites;
Bookings in British Columbia - BC Parks Reservation Website
Bookings in Alberta - Alberta Parks Reservation Website
Bookings in National Parks- Parks Canada Reservation Website
Prices do vary from campsite to campsite, but as of 2024 expect to pay $40 per site per night in British Columbia and $35 in Alberta.
One site can usually fit two vehicles and up to 6 people, so if you are struggling for a reservation you could even consider rocking up to campsite and asking those in the check in line if they would be interested in sharing a site and splitting the costs.
Recreational Sites in British Columbia
British Columbia has almost 1,300 recreation or ‘Rec’ sites, the majority of which are free to use and stay at for up to 14 days. These REC Sites vary in size but are located by water features (lakes, rivers, waterfalls etc).
The easiest way to find free camping in BC is to use the Trails and Sites website or a regional Backroad Mapbook.
I utilised these Rec sites in BC in order to keep my costs down before I hit the National Parks.
Its also worth noting that a lot of them are only accessed via unpaved gravel logging roads. This can be an issue if you do have a large RV and is another reason I recommend the Roadsurfer Liberty Lodge.
Backcountry camping
For the more adventurous amongst you, I would recommend spending at least one night in a backcountry campsite.
Backcountry sites are simply campsites, situated in incredible locations within the Canadian landscape. Located a minimum of 1 km from any highway or park road, they are not accessible by vehicle, have very limited facilities, are generally used for multi-day hiking trips.
Although backcountry sites require more effort to reach, they will usually provide you with an experience and a view like no other. I stayed in two backcountry sites (Golden Ears and Wedgemount) when I was in BC and they were easily two of my favourite stays throughout my trip.
Some backcountry sites require you purchase a permit, They usually cost very little ($5-$10 per person per night) and others you simply have to book a space (just like you could with a normal campground).
A full list of of places where a backcountry permit is required can be found on the BC Parks website.
Unlimited permits are available can be purchased up to 2 weeks in advance. However buying a permit does not guarantee you a campsite or tent pad, as they are all claimed on a first-come, first-served basis.
Other overnight options
If you are desperate for accommodation or really want to save on costs, there are some other places which you could utilise as last resort for a for brief overnight stays. These options shouldn’t be abused and should only be used if necessary.
Rest stops - Both BC and Alberta have a multitude of rest stops dotted along main highways. They vary in size and facilities with some having gas stations with bathrooms, and a restaurant and some just being a lay-by with a trashcan. The rest stops will usually have clear signage stating how long drivers can stay, which is typically between 6-8 hours, alongside if you can stay overnight.
Truck stops - Bigger than rest stops, truck stops are sometimes referred to as ‘travel centres’ or ‘travel plazas,’ and will often include bathrooms, fuel and a place to eat. Truck stops tend to be very noisy due to drivers keeping their engines running and trucks constantly coming and coming.
Visitor Information Centres - Alongside proving free toilets, maps, and Wifi. Some Information centres have water fill stations and even let you sleep in their car park for a small cost. One example is the Icefield parkway visitor centre, where you an stay in massive the car park for $10 per night.
Walmart and Canadian Tire - On occasion you are able stay overnight in the car park of in some private establishments, such as a Walmart and Canadian Tire. This will be down to each store, some will have signs and others you will have to go in and ask.
Things I would recommend doing before the road trip
Download offline maps - You can do this on google, However I recommend downloading the app Maps.Me. This is free mapping service which allows you download entire regions for offline use. The app will show and will allow you to search for toilets, fuel, places to eat, supermarkets, points of interest, mountains, alongside hiking trails. It also will allow you navigate from place to place by vehicle and by foot. I have used it all over the world. It’s particularly useful for hiking as it shows contour lines alongside trails and mountain peaks.
Purchase an E-sim - I purchased a 30gb pack from Airalo, It was the first time I have used an e-sim and I couldn’t fault it. Aside from the really remote locations in the Rockies, it worked flawlessly and allowed me to check in with loved ones, post on social media, alongside using google maps.
Pre book campsites In the National Parks - As the national parks are so popular, pre book as many national park campsites as you can as far in advance as possible. If you don’t want to pre-book your entire time in the National Parks, then just book your weekend stays. It will make your trip far less stressful.
Keep an eye on Wildfires - If you are travelling between June and September it’s worth monitoring wildfires in both BC and Alberta. They are extremely common and not only can they cause reduced air quality and visibility, but can lead to road, entire communities, and regions being closed off. This was tragically the case in July 2024 when Jasper was engulfed by a wildfire. The entire town was evacuated and a third of it was destroyed. The result was that you could not visit the town or drive the Icefield parkway.
Download iOverlander and Park 4 night - Both of these apps will showcase places which you can stay or park up at for free. Whilst they aren’t suitable for the national parks, these will be particularly useful during the first week of your trip in British Columbia.
Bring camping equipment - Even if you don’t end up using it, it gives you the option to stay in back country sites and in the situation where all the RV campsites are booked out, you then have secondary option to fall back on.
My suggested itinerary
Days 1-2: Vancouver & Golden Ears Provincial park
Whilst the city of Vancouver is probably the least impressive place on this three week trip. It’s still a beautiful and diverse city and has a whole host of awesome things to see and do.
It’s also a great place to find your feet, stock up supplies, and get over your jet lag.
If possible I’d try and spend most of your time in West or North of Vancouver as this is where you’ll find the mountains and canyons.
Some of my favourite things to do would include;
Rent a bike and cycle around Stanley park, stopping at Third beach.
Go for a dip at one of the city’s many beaches: Favourites include Third Beach, Kitsilano, Deep Cove, Spanish Banks.
Take a walk around Lynn canyon, finishing up with a dip in 30ft pool
Head up Cypress mountain - As well as offering great views over the city (I’d recommend heading up for sunset) it’s a starting point for numerous hikes (including the St Marks Summit)
Watch the sunset - You have a whole host of places but some easily accessible pots include: Sunset beach, Kitsilano beach, Spanish Banks, Cypress mountain, and Horseshoe Bay
Go for hike: In the north of Vancouver there are a plethora of options to choose from. Two of my recommendations would be St Marks Summit and Pump Peak
Take a stroll around Wytecliff park - home to a beautiful beach and a great place to catch the sunset
Head over to Vancouver Island
St Marks Summit
Spanish Banks
Pump Peak
Where to stay in Vancouver
Vancouver is a little more difficult as there aren’t many Rec sites and they are cracking down on staying overnight in vehicles around the city. However if you look hard enough and you’re quite subtle there are plenty of places you can stay. I’m not going to post locations on here but I would recommend looking on Park4night and iOverlander for suggestions.
The only RV park in Vancouver is Capilano River R.V. Park. It’s located in West Vancouver, just over the Lions Gate bridge.
Golden Ears Provincial park
I also made a trip out to Golden Ears Provincial Park, which is around a 75 minute drive east from Vancouver.
While this isn’t a must visit, it was an beautiful provincial park which had a stunning lakeside beach and plenty of hiking. In Golden Ears mountain and backcountry site you also have arguably one of the most scenic hikes and backcountry campgrounds in British Columbia.
An alternative to spending time in Vancouver would be to head over to Vancouver Island. I have never visited the Island so unfortunately I can’t give you recommendations.
Golden Ears Backcountry site
Golden Ears Backcountry site
Days 3-6: Sea to Sky Highway
The famous Sea to Sky highway is one of the most scenic roads in Canada. Officially known as Route 99, it stretches 76 miles from Vancouver up to the town of Whistler. On the way you will pass through several provincial parks, including Alice Lakes, Squamish, Brandywine, and Garibaldi, the last of which has some of the best hikes in Canada.
Recommendations on places to visit.
Murrin provincial park - Located on the side of highway 99 just before Squamish, the Murrin loop trail offers a great viewpoint over Howe Sound. You can also have a dip in Browning lake.
Squamish - Stop by Shannon Falls, located just off the highway it will take less than half hour to see. If you have the time and competency you can take a hike up the Stawamus Chief or alternatively catch the Sea to Sky Gondola.
Summit of Stawamus chief
Photo by Bee Calder
Stawamus chief
Brohm Lake - located just outside of Squamish on the side of the highway 99, the lake is less than 50m from the car park and is delightful spot for a quick and refreshing dip. Alternatively you can go to Cat Lake or Alice lake.
Brandywine Falls - Another spectacular waterfall located a short distance from highway 99. The viewing platform is a 500m walk from the car park and should take less than 10 minutes to reach.
Brohm lake
Brandywine falls
Garibaldi Provincial park
The Sea to Sky highway has some of the best hiking outside of the Canadian Rockies, with several of my favourites being situated in Garibaldi provincial park. Three recommendations would be Panorama Ridge & Garibaldi Lake, Wedgemount Lake, and Elfin Lakes.
My favourite would be Panorama Ridge, Although it is a very difficult 30km hike with 1,500m of elevation gain, it offers arguably the best views of any hike in British Columbia, if not the Canadian Rockies. I did this hike on my second visit to Vancouver back in 2017 and randomly found a dumbbell at the top.
A free day-use pass is required to hike this trail from June 13, 2024 - September 2, 2024, and on weekends and holidays only from September 3 to October 14, 2024. Reservations can be made with BC Parks. If the day passes are unavailable they do realise more permits for each day, 48 hours in advance at 8am.
Whistler
Consistently ranked one of the top four-season resorts in North America, Whistler is always alive with events, celebrations, and its legendary après scene, It has whole range of activities from skiing, mountain biking, bungie jumping, gondolas, and hiking, alongside a plethora of shops, restaurants and places to eat. It’s definitely a place which is worth a visit, and would make for a good base for those wanting to explore Garibaldi Provincial park.
Where to stay on the Sea to Sky Highway
Whistler would be a great base for those who aren’t camping. I ended up staying two nights here in paid accommodation as I had a friends wedding in Pemberton.
I stayed a night up at the back country campsite at Wedgemount Lake and it was one of the most spectacular campsites I’ve ever stayed at. There is also backcountry sites at Garibaldi lake. There are also a huge amount of free Rec sites located along the Sea to Sky highway, I spent a night in the car park at Brohm Lake.
Two suggestions for campsites include;
Alice Lakes Campground near Squamish
Whistler RV Park close to Brandywine Falls
Day 7 & 8: Whistler to Mount Robson
As the 740km drive from Whistler to Mount Robson is the longest of your trip, it’s worth splitting up over two days. On reflection its something I wish I had done, however because I had pre-booked campsites I had to do it in one drive.
Below are some of the places I recommend you stop at. I also recommend that you call by Kamloops to stock up on reasonably priced supplies, as it is the last major town before before you hit the Rockies.
Joffre Lakes
A series of three turquoise lakes framed by rugged glaciated capped peaks create a breath-taking panorama. Starting with the first lake, you'll be treated to a spectacular view of the Matier Glacier, and as you continue to the Upper Joffre Lakes, the scenery just keeps getting more impressive.
The first lake is a 5 minute walk from the car park, however the 10 km (6.5 miles) round-trip trek to the Upper Joffre Lakes will typically takes about 3-4 hours.
Unfortunately due to its popularity and small car park, you now need a apply for a day use pass in order to visit. I’d recommend going very early or late in the afternoon to avoid the hordes.
Photo by Arnold Dogelis
Wells Grey Provincial Park
Situated north of Clearwater, this provincial park is home to several spectacular waterfalls which are located a short distance from the main road. The three waterfalls which are worth stopping at are:
Spahat Falls: A 75m waterfall which can be seen from an observation deck which is 5 minutes from the car park. (11km from Clearwater)
Maul falls: At 35m its the smallest of the three, and is only accessible via a 3km one way hike. However it is the only waterfall you can stand behind. (27km from Clearwater)
Helmcken Falls: At 141m its the fourth highest waterfall in Canada, again there is platform to view the waterfall from. (46km from Clearwater)
Just note that the road leading to waterfalls is one way, so you will have to drive out to to comeback (Helmeckn falls will take around 45-60 minutes to reach. So if you are short on time I’d recommend just stopping at Spahat falls.
Spahat Falls
Helmcken Falls
Mount Robson Provincial Park
Home to Mount Robson, the tallest mountain in Canadian Rockies, this is a great stop to call by on the way to Jasper National park.
It is worth visiting to see the mountain from the highway 16 alone. I headed here for sunrise and it was incredibly special, having the road to myself for long periods.
I would definitely stop by the visitor centre to get some cracking views of the iconic mountain from the car park along with some free Wi-fi.
The trail up to Berg lake was closed in 2024 but its is due to re-open in 2025. Apparently the trail is not only a great hike but also has a fantastic backcountry site, so it would be worth adding to your list if the weather is good and you have the time,
Day 9: Jasper and the surrounding area
First of all it’s worth mentioning that the clocks go forward an hour when you head across the border into Alberta.
Unfortunately Jasper was ravaged by wildfires during the summer of 2024 which left a lot of the town and surrounding area destroyed. It was tragic event which I was fortunate to miss by only three days.
It’s worth checking on the Jasper National Park Website on what the current situation is in Jasper and if tourists are allowed back into the town or into the surrounding national park.
I will be honest, as beautiful as Jasper was, I was not a huge fan of the town as it felt very tourist driven. There are also far more impressive landscape and places in the Canadian Rockies. For that reason I only recommend spending one night here before heading onto the Icefields parkway.
Mount Edith Cavell
If there is only one place you stop at near Jasper it’s the Mount Edith Cavell area.
Getting there is an adventure in itself as it involves driving up Cavell Road, a twisting, turning 14 kilometre alpine road. Weather permitting, the road remains open from June 14, until early October. Check Jasper National Park road updates for up-to-date road conditions and status.
You’ll first pass Cavell lake, a crystal clear glacial lake surrounded by trees which can offer incredible reflections of the 3,300m Mount Edith Cavell. Limited parking is located on the side of the road and from there it’s a short 300m walk to the lakeside.
A further mile up the road you’ll reach Mount Edith Cavell parking lot. From there you can hike one mile up to Cavell pond, a turquoise blue glacial lake which sits directly beneath Mount Edith Cavell and is fed by two separate glaciers.
The views are incredible and id go as far as saying as it was my favourite lake in the Canadian Rockies. Aim to visit for sunrise or sunset for the best views and least amount of visitors.
I visit at sunset and I had the place to myself, I spent a good hour just sitting here and socking in the otherworldly views, before having a very cold dip!
Lake Cavell
Cavell Pond
Lake Edith and Lake Annette - Two beautiful family friendly lakes which are great for relaxing and swimming
Valley of the Five Lakes Trail - A gentle 4.5km circuit which involves 150m of elevation gain and calls by 5 beautiful lakes
Maligne Canyon - This natural phenomenon contains a series of waterfalls, cavernous channels, and scenic bridges which tower up to 50m above the river below. Your visit can be a quick 15 minute photo stop or a longer 3 hour hike.
Maligne Lake - famed for the colour of its water, Maligne Lake is the largest natural lake in the Canadian Rockies. It extends 22 kilometres and is surrounded by snow-capped, ice-covered mountains. It stretches past the tranquil Spirit Island and reaches up to the meltwater channels of Coronet Glacier. If you have the time you can also catch a boat out to Spirit Island.
Spirit island and some very smoke covered mountains
Jasper Sky Tram
This is the highest and longest guided aerial tramway in Canada. For $67 return trip (per adult) it will take you up to a height of 2,263 metres. From the upper tramway you can then make the short 1.4km hike (200m of elevation gain) to the Whistlers Summit. The reward will be incredible panoramic views over the surrounding area.
Where to stay in Jasper
Two options for those with motorhomes would be Whistlers and Wapiti campground, Both of which are operated by parks Canada.
Whistlers summit
Days 10 & 11: Icefield Parkway
Described as drive of a lifetime, many would argue that this is not only the most scenic road in Canada but also the world.
Highway 93, is a 232 km stretch of double-lane highway which wind along the continental divide and links up the towns of Jasper and Lake Louise
Passing through the Jasper and Banff national park, the road is flanked by soaring rocky mountain peaks, glacial fed lakes, multiple icefields and vast sweeping valleys.
The landscape was so captivating I nearly veered my van off the road! Im not joke when I say you will want pull over and stop every few miles.
Don’t make the mistake I did and try and drive the parkway in one day. Whilst it is possible, there are far too many places to stop at so it’s worth splitting this up over two days and taking your time
Below are a list of must visit spots on the Icefield parkway, I have listed them from north to south in the order you will pass them.
Athabasca Falls - An impressive waterfall which is less than 200m from the car park.
Goats & Glacier Lookout - A lovely photo spot situated on the side of the road.
Sunwapta Falls - Another canyon and waterfall situated <200m from the car park.
Athabasca Falls
Sunwapta Falls
Goats and Glaciers
Parker’s Ridge - Regarded as one of the best short hikes in the Rockies, the 6.4km out and back hike involve 345m of elevation gain and gives epic views of the surrounding mountains Saskatchewan Glacier. I decided to skip this hike as I was short on time and the visibility was extremely limited by wildfire smoke
Mistaya Canyon - Another impressive canyon which is accessed by a short 300m downhill walk
Stutfield Glacier Viewpoint - A large lay bay which offers a impressive view towards Stutfiled glacier
Athabasca Glacier - The base of the glacier is accessed via a short walk from the car park. If you did have more time, you can book a tour to go for a walk on on the Glacier
Athabasca Glacier
Mistaya Canyon
Stutfield Glacier
Columbia Icefield centre
Situated almost half way along the Icefield Parkway, this is the perfect place to stop for lunch and rest up. The centre offers an incredible panoramic view towards the several glacial tongues which flow towards the centre. It will be incredibly busy but it does have a whole host of facilities including toilets, two restaurants, Starbucks, wi-fi, alongside an information centre and museum.
Peyto Lake
An incredible viewpoint which is accessed by a gentle 2km walk. I would skip the viewing platform and try and seek out the viewpoint which is located slightly further on.
Bow Lake
A roadside glacial lake which offers stunning views of the surrounding mountains and glaciers. The shoreline is 100m from the car park. Its also a start point for the hike up to Bow Glacier Falls
Where to stay on the Icefields Parkway?
My suggestion would be Waterfowl Lakes campground, its first come first served and is situated on the shores of the beautiful Waterfowl lakes.
Alternatively you can spend a night in the RV lot at the Icefields centre. It costs $17.50, has no hookups, and is on a gentle slope. However the trade off is one of the most impressive car parks you will ever sleep in.
Waterfowl lake
Days 12 -14: Lake Louise
Alongside Banff and Jasper, Lake Louise is the postcard of the Canadian Rockies. It’s famed for its two incredibly blue and beautiful alpine lakes, Lake Louise and Moraine lake, which draw hundred of thousand off visitors each year.
Although this is one of the most popular and tourist driven places in the Canadian Rockies, its’ undoubtedly one of the most beautiful and has some incurable hikes. For that reason I recommend you spend at least two full days here, pre-booking your campsite well in advance.
Whilst you can visit both Moraine lake and Lake Louise in a single day, I would recommend designating a day to visit each lake and complete a nearby hike.
Important Things to know
You can not drive to Moraine lake unless you have accommodation at Moraine Lake Lodge or are disabled.
You can drive and park at Lake Louise. However it will cost $37 per day and spaces are extremely limited. So unless you arrive early or go in the evening (parking is free after 7pm) then you will most probably end up in a long traffic jam which will result in you being told the car park is full.
Instead, I would book onto the Parks Canada Shuttle, It cost $8 and guarantees the ability to see both iconic destinations in one day.
Pre-booking your shuttle is essential, with reservations becoming available on April 18th each year. If the shuttle is booked up, additional seats will be released in a rolling window, at 8 am MDT two days prior to the day departure day.
If you can’t get a ticket for Parks Canada Shuttle service then I’m afraid you will have to fork out an added premium to use one of the private tour operators. I’m not sure how much the buses are, but a friend of mine paid $40 just to get the shuttle between Lake Louise and Moraine lake.
Once you have a time slot booked you simply catch the bus from the free park and ride service Lake Louise Ski Resort. After seeing one of the two lakes, you can then use your ticket to catch the free lake connector shuttle between the lakes. The buses depart the ski centre every 30 minutes from 6:30am to 6pm. The last return bus to the ski centre departs at 7:30pm from both lakes.
I’d recommend booking the earliest shuttle as possible so you can not only spend as much time as possible at both lakes, but to also avoid the hordes of people which will build up throughout the day.
Alpine start
If you wanted to see sunrise from Moraine lake, you can catch one of the two alpine start shuttles run by Parks Canada. These also cost $8 and depart at either 4am or 5am, the catch is that they leave from Lake Louise Lakeshore (not the Lake Louise Park and Ride), meaning you have to pay the $37 daily parking charge.
I managed to book both an alpine start shuttle and a 6:30am shuttle when I was out in Canada. I snagged the alpine start when the tickets were released at 8am, however I did manage to book a 6:30am shuttle to Lake Louise at 11pm the night before.
Moraine lake sunrise
Lake Louise sunset
Lake Louise
My recommendation for a hike would be to hike up to the beautiful Lake Agnes and then either push onto little beehive, Big beehive, or the Devils thumb.
The hike up to Big beehive is a moderately challenging 11k out and back hike which had 715m of elevation gain. Big Beehive hiking route
Its is not technical and follows a well maintained path for the majority of the way. There is one section of very steep switchbacks after lake Agnes. The reward will be an epic panorama over Lake Louise and lake Agnes.
If you have a little more in the legs and don’t mind a bit of scramble, its definitely worth continuing up to the Devils Thumb. The route is not exposed but does include a very steep section of very loose mud, rock which some people may find quite difficult.
The reward is a complete lack of other people, an even better view over lake Louise and sensational view towards the plain of the 6 glaciers. In total the difficult out and back 13k hike involves 815m of elevation gain. Devils Thumb Hiking Route.
Moraine lake
With its mountainous backdrop situated with the valley of the 10 peaks, moraine lakes mountain backdrop makes it the more impressive of the two lakes.
If visiting except large crowds, especially at sunrise. I caught the 5am alpine shuttle and there was already a few hundred people up on the viewpoint. Fortunately there’s lots of places to sit and stand, but never expect to have this place to yourself.
Because of the wildfire smoke from Jasper and the strong winds, I didn’t get the picture perfect reflection I had hoped for.
Sentinel Pass hike
Once you have seen the lake I’d recommend hiking up to Sentinel pass (11km return with 750m of elevation gain). You’ll pass through larch valley up to Minnestimma Lake, where you’ll be granted an amazing view back over the valley of the 10 peaks. From sentinel pas you’ll have views over paradise valley
Mount Temple hike
Then if you have the right conditions and the skillet to do so, I’d look to push up to the summit of Mount Temple (3,545m).
This is extremely difficult hike which involves over 1,500m of elevation gain. Although it isn’t that technical, it will require plenty of scrambling, climbing lots of steep scree, and occasionally crossing steep patches of snow. So knowing the route and having the correct gear is essential.
Its also a long day ( it took me nearly 10 hours ) so bear the in mind when factoring in how you will get back from Moraine lake. The rewards from the 3,545m peak are some of the best in the Rockies. I was blown away by the views.
Visit Yoho National park
Situated on the eastern side of the continental divide, bordering Banff National Park, Yoho is located only a short 30 minute drive west from wold famous Lake Louise.
Th national park is The Park is host to many of Canada's most scenic locations such as Emerald Lake, Lake O’Hara and Takakkaw Falls, which his Canada’s 3rd highest waterfall.
Lake O’Hara comes highly recommend, however in order to protect this sensitive alpine area, access is limited.
To Reach Lake O’Hara You must either enter the random draw in order to catch one of the limited shuttle buses which run each day, or by hike 10km one way via a forestry road.
As I couldn’t get a bus ticket and I wanted to prioritise hiking around Lake Louise and Kananaskis, I didn’t end up visiting Yoho. That being said I have only heard glowing reviews about the park and the below photos from Unsplash speak for themselves.
Lake O'Hara by Jean da Silva
Takakkaw Falls by Victor Silva
Days 15 & 16 - Bow Valley Parkway and Banff
From Lake Louise I would recommend driving along the Bow Valley parkway (Hwy-1A) to Banff.
This 50 km route runs parallel to the Trans-Canada highway, offering a slower and scenic alternative drive to the main highway.
If you have already driven the Icefields parkway then this road will seem a little underwhelming, but then again, every road journey will feel underwhelming after driving the Icefields parkway
Two places I would recommend stopping at are Morant’s curve and Castle Junction.
I would skip Johnson's Canyon unless you plan on visiting very early or late. During the day it becomes overwhelmingly busy and will take away from the experience.
As the canyon bridges are so narrow, it will feel like you are in a 2km hour long queue. In fact, I did reluctantly queue for 15 minutes to take a photo of the second waterfall. Do yourself a favour and skip it, there more beautiful spots all across the Rockies.
Morants Curve
Banff Town
Often considered the central hub of the Canadian Rockies, Banff is a beautiful town enveloped by the mountains. Although it’s a beautiful stop which I’d recommend visiting, it can get very busy and is a hotspot for all of the tours of the Rockies. Unless the weather isn’t great, I’d only recommend spending one (maximum two) days here, especially as Canmore and Kananaskis can offer a much more authentic and impressive experience of the Rockies.
Things to do around Banff
Visit the Town: The centre of the town is incredibly picturesque. The main street is currently closed off to traffic and makes for a great photo.
Mount Norquay Viewpoint: An easily accessible viewpoint which I located on the way up to the Ski resort. From the roadside you will have a great view over Banff towards Mount Rundle.
Sulphur Mountain - offers the best views of the Town. You can either catch the gondola up and down, or complete the 5.5km hike which involves 700m of scent up to the summit. Summer rates start at $60, however tickets are dynamical priced and do vary by day. There are also hot springs located near the lower terminal, they are run by Parks Canada and cost $17.50 per person. It’s worth checking the weather conditions by looking at the Banff Gondola Webcam.
Sulphur Mountain by Dylan Shaw
Vermillion lakes – A series of three lakes situated just outside of Banff. From the shoreline you have a great view of Mount Rundle making it a great spot for sunrise. You can swim here but it is quite murky/muddy and will leave you smelling like a pond.
Two Jack Lake – located around 15 minute drive outside of Banff, this picturesque emerald green lake offers another sweeping view of Mount Rundle. Its sandy shoreline and accessibility make it very popular with families, so it can get busy.
Lake Minnewanka - The second longest lake in the Rockies is situated a short drive from Two Jack lake. As well as being a great photography spot, you can head onto the water by booking onto boat cruise
Vermillion lakes
Lake Minnewanka
Where to stay in Banff
Two Jack lakeside campground offers great views but Tunnel Mountain village is located closer to town, both can be booked through the Parks Canada Website. A full list of campsites in Banff National Park can be found here.
Two Jack Lake by Geoff Pinkney
Days 17 -20: Canmore & Kananaskis Provincial Park
In my experience this is one of the most impressive and rugged areas of the Canadian Rockies. Not only is the landscape and hiking on another level, but you’ll also find the region is far quieter and less tourists driven.
If you have good weather and like hiking, I would prioritise spending a good chunk of your time here as there’s so much to do.
Signal is almost non-existent and facilities are at a premium, so make sure you stock up on fuel and supplies in Canmore before heading into the provincial park. You will also need conservation pass for everyday you spend Kananaskis (You don’t need it for Canmore), which costs $15 per day and can be bought online.
What to do around Canmore
Go for a hike
Three popular hikes are Ha Ling peak, East End of Rundle (EEOR), and Grassi lakes. The first two are very steep but short mountain hikes which offer incredible views over Canmore and the surrounding mountains. Ha Ling would be my choice for sunset and East End for Sunrise. Alternatively Grassi lakes is a great lower level family friendly walk which visits two incredible turquoise clear lakes.
Ha Ling peak – Moderate/hard | 7.5km | 750m of elevation
East End of Rundle – Hard | 5km | 823m of elevation
Grassi lakes – Easy | 3.5km | 160m of elevation gain
Ha Ling Peak
EEOR by Devin Lyster
Visit some of the lakes
Canmore has some stunning lakes which are very accessible and are great for photographers. Three which I would recommend are Quarry Lake, Rundle Forebay, and Grassi Lakes.
Grassi lake
Quarry lake
What to do in Kananaskis
Drive the Smith Dorien road
A wild unpaved 70km road which connects Canmore and Kananaskis Trail, passing through some stunning mountainous scenery, alongside the Spray lakes reservoir. The road consists of a dusty gravel gravel-surface, and does contain the odd bump alongside a lot of washboards. It’s pretty easy to drive; so there is no need to worry about needing a 4x4.
The Smith Dorien Road is also a great starting point for numerous hikes, I didn’t have the time to complete any but Reads Tower, Little Lougheed, and Wind tower are three step but short hikes which can grant you amazing views over Spray lakes. Mt Sparrowhawk would be a another option but that is a very difficult hike.
Mt Sparrowhawk by Jordan Ostapiuk
Upper Kananaskis Lakes
One of the most impressive lakes in the Rockies and my favourite. Although the water is not as vibrant as other lakes, the mountain backdrop is stunning. It’s a great spot for sunrise and is definitely worth taking a swim in.
Hike Tent Ridge
Tent Ridge is a moderately challenging 11km circuit which involves 750m of elevation gain. This offers seriously impressive views back over Spray lakes reservoir. Although there are some steep sections which may require you using your hands, its not technical and offers insane views throughout.
Smutwood peak
Another contender for the best summit view in the Rockies. Smutwood Peak looks over two lakes towards the pyramidal Mount Birdwood. Photos from the summit don’t look real, however I can confirm its even better seeing it in real life. The long and difficult 19km out and back hike involves 845m of elevation gain. The trail includes number of steep sections of scree alongside a final scramble up to the summit. Although this scramble isn’t exposed it can be a little technical and little tricky in places. I also spotted a grizzly on this trail, so I’d recommend keeping your wits about you and carrying bear spray.
Rawson lake and Sarrail Ridge
Rawson lake a magical alpine lake surrounded by trees and encircled by high rocky peaks. Up above it sits Sarrail Ridge, which offers insane views over Kananaskis lakes. Its one of the best views in the Rockies and if you are lucky you might even see a few Canadian mountain goats like I did. The area is known for high grizzly activity, so check at the visitor centre if it is open and always carry bear spray.
Rawson lake: Easy 6km hike with 250m of elevation
Sarrail ridge: Difficult 10km hike with 400m of elevation gain
Elbow lake
A small but beautiful alpine lake which is accessed via short walk. This is a great choice if you are looking for easier, family friendly walk. The out and back walk around the lake is 4km with 175 m of elevation gain. There is also a backcountry site located on its shoreline.
Highwood pass
At 2,206m This is highest paved road in Canada. As well as being a very scenic drive, the pass is a starting point for numerous scenic hikes in the region. My recommendation would be Highwood and Grizzly Ridge which is great introduction to scrambling and ridge walking. If you are looking for something less technical then you can also hike the Ptarmigan and Arethusa cirque.
Looking down the hardwood pass from Grizzly ridge
Visit Mount Assiniboine
Nicknamed the “Matterhorn of the Rockies”, Mount Assiniboine Provincial Park is one of the premier backcountry destinations in the Canadian Rockies.
A visit to this mountainous paradise will need to pre-planned as not only is it very inaccessible, but accommodation needs to pre-booked and is very short supply.
The only way to reach Mount Assiniboine is either via helicopter or by hiking in. The shortest route starts from Mount Shark Trailhead, is 26km (one way) and involves 460m of elevation.
Unfortunately, I didn’t get the chance to visit as all the backcountry campsites and helicopter flights were booked up when I wanted to go. If you are interested in visiting then check out this awesome blog post for more detail.
Mount Assiniboine by Beier C.
Where to stay in Kananaskis
There are several campsites located around Kananaskis lakes which would be a great place to base yourself from.
Interlakes has 48 unserviced sites which are first come first served and cost £31
Boulton creek has both serviced and unserviced sites which range from $31 to $55
Lower lakes has 83 unserviced sites at $31 a night
A full list of Vehicle access campsites can be found on the Alberta Website.
Day 21: Drive to Calgary
Upper Kananaskis Lakes is less than a 2-hour drive to Calgary International airport. Thankfully you don’t have to drive back along the Smith Dorien Highway again! After leaving the Provincial Park via highway 40 you’ll head east on the Trans-Canada Highway (1).
I haven’t set aside anytime to spend in Calgary. Although I never went into the city, I can’t image it has much you want to see after spending three weeks passing through the stunning Canadian landscape.
How to make the road trip shorter?
If you only had two weeks to complete this trip, I would try and leave Vancouver as quickly as you can, focusing on the Sea to Sky highway, Lake Louise, the Icefields parkway, and Kananaskis County. A shortened route could look like this;
Vancouver & Sea to Sky Highway – 4 days
Joffre & Wells Grey – 1 day
Mount Robson & Jasper – 1 day
Icefields Parkway – 2 days
Lake Louise – 2 days
Banff – 1 day
Canmore and Kananaskis Country – 3 days
How to make the road trip longer?
You can easily make this trip longer by extending your time in each destination, there is so much to see and do, especially from a hiking perspective. I barely scratched the surface and I didn’t even visit Yoho, Kootenay, or Glacier National parks . I also didn’t spend anytime on Vancouver Island.
Upper Kananaskis lake
Tent Ridge
Where was my favourite place?
Kananaskis County. For me this place felt like the true Canadian Rockies, It was rugged, wild and both the hikes and the landscape was on another level. As an Added bonus it was the least touristy place I went. Canmore also was a lovely town, which felt like a less touristy version of Banff.
What was my favourite hike?
It’s hard to pick one so I’ve selected four of my favourites
Mount Temple, Banff National Park
Panorama Ridge, Garibaldi provincial park
Tent Ridge, Kananaskis
Mount Smutwood, Kananaskis
Other things to know
Stock up on supplies when you can
This goes without saying, but I recommend making use of the major grocery stores and wholesale shops in the major hubs before you hit the Canadian Rockies.
After you pass through Kamloops on the way to Mount Robson, there is very limited options until you reach Banff. Stock up on your non-perishable goods and if you have a fridge, fresh produce, as it will save you paying a premium when you get into the Rockies.
Some stores I recommend bookmarking and trying to find are
IGA / Save on Foods / No Frills - Good value grocery stores
Walmart - For snacks and non-perishable goods, some also sell fresh produce.
Canadian Tire - This shop has pretty much everything at a reasonable price, i’d call by here if you need some camping or cooking equipment.
Bear spray
You might need it, you might not. Now this should be bought whilst you are over in Canada. Everyone says it is essential if you are hiking in Canada. From my experience if you are only hiking well on marked and popular trails in provincial parks and national parks, then you could get away with not carrying it.
However, if you are planning on venturing into the backcountry to camp or hike especially in Kananaskis Provincial Park, then you will need to pick up some bear spray. It’s better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it.
Across my three-week trip I saw one bear. It was a grizzly which was 100m from the trail in Kananaskis provincial park so I was glad to have it on me.
Prepare for Mosquitos
Something I was blissfully unaware of until I got bitten death on my second night whilst staying in backcountry campsite. If there is no wind then mosquitos can be horrendous (not as bad as Scottish midges) so its best to be prepared for them.
If you are travelling during summer and are planning on hiking or doing any backcountry stays, either bring or buy some mosquito spray and even a head net. Also consider packing hiking gear which will cover your arms and legs.
Bring camping equipment
If you want to stay in backcountry campsite then I would recommend packing some camping equipment. Even if you don’t end up using it, it gives you the option to stay in back country sites and in the situation where all the RV campsites are booked out, you then have secondary option to fall back on.
Hiking Essentials to bring
I got very lucky with the weather, The majority of the trip was spent hiking in 20–30-degree heat and I didn’t see a cloud for the first week.
I predominantly wore shorts, trail running shoes, and a long-sleeved hooded Merino T-shirt. This was supplemented by a lightweight wind breaker when I was more exposed to the elements. I rarely had to put on extra layers, even on the summit of Mount Temple (3,545m). However, in Kananaskis the temperature dropped significantly and for two separate hikes I had trousers and multiple layers on.
The attire will reflect the season and the weather you are going in, however I always say to use a layering system and always pack and carry extra layers, as it’s better to have it and not need it, than need it and not have it.
Waterproof Jacket
Waterproof Hiking boots – For more technical trails
Trail Running shoes – for less technical hikes and lower-level walking
Merino baselayers – Wick sweat effectively, dry quickly, and are anti-odour
Synthetic mid-layer (hoodie)
Down jacket
Hiking backpack: 15-25 litres in capacity
Long sleeved hiking trousers – Protect you from the wind and insects
Waterproof over trousers
Headtorch
Gloves and Beanie
Cap or Hat
Power bank and cable
I’d also recommend packing
Hiking poles
GPS Receiver
Bear spray
Sun cream
Mosquito repellent
Camping equipment
Tent
Sleeping pad
Sleeping bag
Backpacking rucksack- 40-50 litres
There we have it, my three week road trip guide from Vancouver to Calgary via the Canadian Rockies.
I hope you found it useful, let me know in the comments if you did, or if you have any questions.
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