Pembrokeshire Must See and Do

With 186 miles of breath-taking coastline and more blue flag beaches than any other county, Pembrokeshire is a national park like no other. This beautiful stretch of rugged coastline is the only UK national park to be situated completely on the coast and has a diverse landscape that houses world-renowned beaches, an abundance of coastal wildlife and plethora of picturesque seaside villages..

Slight bias here, but I will always favour the beaches of the Gower Peninsula as it is where I grew up. However the coastline of Pembrokeshire is equally, if not more spectacular and is a place I will never get tired of visiting.

If you are looking for a coastal escape within the confines of the UK then Pembrokeshire should be top of your list.

To help you decide where to go and what to do I have compiled a list my favourite destinations to visit alongside places to eat and stay. This list is no means gospel, each location however is unique and will hopefully leave as much of a lasting impression on you as they have done on me. 

Blue Lagoon

Unfortunately this is not the Blue Lagoon of Iceland, however in my opinion it is far more beautiful.

Pembrokeshire's Blue lagoon is abandoned slate quarry, filled with turquoise water on the north coast of the coastal path. Shut down in 1910, the seaward wall of the quarry was blasted open by fisherman in order to flood the mine and provide refuge for their boats. 

With the fishing industry all but disappeared, Blue Lagoon is now an oasis for swimming, coasteering and even cliff diving. Despite the name, the water within the quarry has a beautiful greenish hue due to its high mineral content.

The spectacular nature and location of Blue lagoon has resulted in it being chosen as a stop on the Red Bull cliff diving series in 2012, 2013 & 2016. The events saw the world's best divers leap from a man-made platform, suspended 27 metres above the quarry.

The diving board has since been taken down, however if you are feeling brave enough you can leap from several platforms, ranging from 2 to 10m, on the far side of the quarry. Don’t worry about hitting the bottom, the water is over 25m deep. 

Parking is available at the nearby Abereiddi Beach, its free in the winter months but costs £4 otherwise. From here the quarry is easily accessible via a short 10 minute walk which passes the ruined quarry buildings and slate-workers' cottages. From the base of the lagoon you can climb up and around the cliffs and visit the watch tower perched on the tip of the peninsula.

Whilst at Blue Lagoon I would also recommend walking the coastal path northwards for a further 3km until you reach the quaint, picturesque fishing harbour of Porthgain. On route you’ll skirt around some of Pembrokeshire’s most dramatic and rugged coastline which towers over one-hundred feet above its turquoise clear waters.

1km into this walk you’ll also pass the beautiful Traeth Llyfn, a hidden gem of a beach, backed by towering cliffs which can be accessed by a steep metal staircase. With the majority of people unaware this beach actually exists, you’ll most likely have it to yourself, so pack a picnic and take the time to enjoy it. 

If you are looking for a lunch spot then I would recommend eating at the the Shed located at Porthgain harbour. The fish and chips there is sensational.

Tenby

No visit to West Wales wouldn’t be complete without stopping at the quintessential seaside town of Tenby. 

Situated on the south coast of Pembrokeshire, Dinbych-y-Pysgod (which translated from Welsh to "little town of fishes”) is a small harbour town and seaside resort. Surrounded by a 13th century medieval stone wall, It’s cobbled streets are lined with charm and are perfect for roaming around with an ice cream in hand. 

Those in search of spending time by the beach are spoilt for choice, It has not one but three different beaches, one of which, Castle Beach, was awarded ‘Britain’s Best Beach in 2019’ by the Sunday Times.

There is also the beautiful Tenby harbour which is backed by a rainbow of picture postcard high rise Victorian buildings.

After walking the towns intricate high walled streets, take the time to stroll up onto Castle Hill which overlook the Harbour to get a birds eye view of St Catherines Island and the two lifeboat stations.

For those looking for a location to stay within West Wales then Tenby would be a great choice. Alongside having a plethora of things to see and do, it has plenty of places to eat alongside serval pubs and bars which get a little more lively in the evenings. A full list of where to eat and stay can be found here.

There are number of places to park amongst Tenby’s narrow bustling streets, however the cheapest place to park is in the multi-storey car park beneath Sainsburys, its 50p per hour for a maximum of two hours, which is more you need to snap some picks and a grab a coffee or bite to eat.

A word of warning, Tenby can get extremely busy during the summer months and school holidays. This can make parking a nightmare and the experience of visiting a little overwhelming. For that reason Id aim to visit here away from the weekends or go early in the morning or later in the evening to avoid the crowds.

Broadhaven South & Bosherton Lily Ponds

Probably my favourite beach in Pembrokeshire and in my opinion more impressive than the neighbouring Barafundle bay. 

Located on the edge of the Stackpole Estate in south Pembrokeshire, Broadhaven South is a golden sand beach nestled in front of sand dunes. The bay is instantly recognisable by church rock, A large limestone rock which which sits out in the middle of the bay.

As well as being popular with walkers and tourists, Broadhaven South is an extremely popular bodyboarding beach, which under the right conditions creates notorious barrelling wedges which people travel up from Cornwall to surf. 

Parking can be found in Bosherston village, postcode SA71 5DW, where there are also toilets, a country pub and a small café.  The beach is best reached by taking an easy one mile walk through the magical Bosherton Lily ponds. The man made lakes are famous for their spectacular display of waterlilies and their resident otters and make for an extremely pleasant way to access the beach.

I’d also recommend continuing walking eastward around the coastal path until you reach the neighbouring Barafundle bay. I keep saying this but this stretch of coastline is incredibly dramatic and picturesque. Inaccessible sandy bays are tucked way beneath sheer 100ft cliffs, which you can pear right over the edge of.

This walk can be done as part of a loop starting from Bosherston lily ponds which is one of my favourite walks on the Pembrokeshire coastline. You can find out more about the walk below

Green Bridge of Wales & Elgug Stacks

The Green Bridge of Wales is a 24 m high natural limestone arch located southern coastline of Pembrokeshire Coast National Park.

It’s a spectacular coastal feature, which in my opinion, not only rivals but betters Durdle door not only due to the beauty of the place but also due to the fact that there will be scarcely any people there when you visit it.

Situated 500m down the coastline are Stack Rocks, two limestone stacks which rise steeply from the sea. These impressive coastal features were once part of the Pembrokeshire coastline but have been eroded away over thousands of years and now serve as an important nesting location for many species of seabirds found on the Pembrokeshire Coast. 

Continuing westwards you’ll reach The Cauldron, a large bowl shaped cavern and blow hole situated on the edge of the cliffs and Bullslaughter bay. An empty golden sanded beach, backed by dramatic coastal cliffs which is actually named after the laughter of bulls not the fact that they are slaughtered, which I originally thought.

The free car park is located right next to the coastal path and is only a 300m walk from both The green bridge and stack rocks. However in order to reach the car park you have to (legally) drive 2.5km through a MOD military firing range. 

Unfortunately, as I have found out on two occasions, this road can be closed off during certain times for training exercises. To avoid a wasted trip, you can check that the road through the firing range is open to the public by calling the Pembroke Visitor Centre (+44 01437 776499) or Castlemartin Range (+44 01646 662367)

Although the Green Bridge & Elgug stacks can be seen in a quick fleeting visit, this area of coast is some of the most dramatic and impressive not only in Wales but the UK, so take the time to enjoy it

St Govans Chapel 

This magical little building needs to be seen to be believed. St Govans Chapel is tiny stone building carved into the limestone cliffs of the Pembrokeshire Coast. Dating back to 13th Century the chapel was built to honour the hermit St Govan who lived here alone here during the 6th century

The history of St. Govan is shrouded in mystery. Govan was believed to be an Irish Abbott who was en-route to Wales when he was attacked by some pesky Irish pirates off the coast. Forced to flee into the cliffside, the rocks allegedly morphed into a secret cave for him to hide in. After successfully evading his captors Govan chose to set up a monastic hermitage in the cove, living off the surrounding land, and remained there for the rest of his life. 

I prefer to believe that he was forced to self isolate here after the 6th century Welsh Coronavirus outbreak, started

The chapel is reached by descending 52 stone steps, polished smooth by the feet of generations of visitors. After passing through the wonderfully atmospheric chapel you are able to head down and marvel at the structure from the rocks below. 

The chapel steps are located a short 100m from the car park in Bosherston, postcode SA71 5DR. Once again this location is located within the a MOD military firing range so you will need to check if the road is open to the public before visiting by calling either the Pembroke Visitor Centre (+44 01437 776499) or Castlemartin Range (+44 01646 662367).

Freshwater West

Freshwater West is a wide, sandy and backed by an extensive system of dunes situated on Pembrokeshire exposed west coast

It's south westerly facing direction makes it the most consistent surf spot in Wales resulting it playing host to the Welsh Surfing Championships every year. 

If the beach seems familiar that because it has featured in several Hollywood movies. Ridley Scott’s Robin Hood was filmed here alongside Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows, where the beach was used as the back drop for Dobby’s Shell Cottage. The cottage has since been taken down after filming however you can still run around the dunes shouting "Dobby is a free elf”.

There are two small free car parks situated behind the dunes however these tend to fill up fast if there’s a decent bit of surf. If these become full then some parking is available along the very narrow road.

If you’re a bit of a foodie and like your seafood then the award winning ‘Cafe Mor’ food shack operates out of the southern car park from spring to early autumn and is a must visit.

Barafundle Bay 

Golden sands and crystal clear waters backed by sand dunes dunes and pine trees, Barafundle is nothing short of spectacular. 

It has constantly been voted as one of the best beaches not only in Britain but also the world, and If the sun is out you might mistake this beach for being located on a Caribbean island.

Barafundle’s isolated location means that there are no facilities nor lifeguards at the beach. There is a cafe and toilets located half a mile away at the national trust car park in Stackpole quay where car parking is £5 per day or £2 after 2pm. 

Another way to reach Barafundle, and my recommendation is to walk here from Bosherton lilly ponds via the equally as beautiful Broadhaven South beach. The short two kilometre coastal walk will take you across some of the finest parts of the Pembrokeshire coastal path and allow you to take in two of Pembrokeshire’s finest beaches.

St Davids Peninsula 

Named after the patron saint of Wales, St Davids is Britain's smallest city.  Home to just over 2,000 people it owes its city status to the magnificent Cathedral built in the 12th Century.

However there is far more to this stretch of headland than the Cathedral. To the south of Whitesands is the weathered Treginnis Peninsula, home to the oldest rocks in Pembrokeshire. Here you can walk the coast path from quaint and beautiful Porthclais Harbour around to the RNLI's St Justinian lifeboat station. If you do visit Porthclais harbour make sure to grab a coffee from the little kiosk there.

From St Justinian lifeboat station you can catch a boat tour over to Ramsey Island. Sat 1km off the coastline, Ramsey is the fourth largest of all Welsh islands and is an RSPB (Royal Society for the Protection of Birds) reserve.  The island has spectacular coastal scenery with dramatic western cliffs rising 120m from the ocean. The island is also a breeding site for grey seals, with over 400 seal pups being born here each autumn. There are several boat trips which run each day, details of which can be found here.

Carn Llidi and Whitesands Beach

Northwest of the city of St Davids lies the headland peak of Carn Llidi. The 181m hill is rich in history with two burial chambers located on the southwest slopes alongside an old WWII radar station on its summit. From the summit you will be rewarded with panoramic views westwards towards Ramsey Island and northwards towards Strumble Head; on clear evenings you can also get a glimpse of the Wicklow Mountains in Ireland.

The route to the summit isn’t difficult and is well signposted. From Whitesands Bay car park head back up the road and bear left, following the path which rises gently through Porthmawr Farm and up to the small summit.

Once you’ve completed the hike, reward yourself with a refreshing dip in the ocean on the beautiful Whitesands bay. If you’re looking for a quieter location then the sheltered Porthmelgan Beach located directly below Carn Llidi is a perfect little cove to escape the crowds.

Parking is available in Whitesands Car park, (SA62 6PS) for £5 a day. There is only space for 60 vehicles which tends to fill up quickly in the busy summer months. If no spaces are available you can catch the Celtic Coaster shuttle bus from the Oriel Y Parc in St Davids during the summer. nest to the car park there are also public toilets and a cafe.

Marloes Peninsula & Skomer Island

A must-visit for any nature or wildlife enthusiasts. Skomer Island is located less than a mile from the Pembrokeshire coast and is home to the largest puffin colony in southern Britain.

However there is so much more to the bird paradise than just puffins. The island is surrounded by some of the richest waters for wildlife off the British Isles and sightings of dolphins, porpoises and grey seals are extremely common.

Skomer island is only accessible by boat, but for conservation purposes, the total number of people who are allowed onto the island is capped at 250 people per day. All boats depart from Martins Haven, a delightful little cove situated on the north coast of the peninsula, Tuesday to Sunday at 10 am, 11 am and 12 noon.

Tickets used to be sold on a first come first serve basis but due to the coronavirus pandemic, Online advance booking is now required (that’s one positive of the virus) so pre-book to avoid disappointment. Parking for Skomer Island is available at Martins Haven beach

Whilst you are in the area I would highly recommend visiting the breathtakingly beautiful Marloes Sands, a hidden gem of a beach backed by steep rugged coastal cliffs nestled on the very western edge of Pembrokeshire. Scenes from the Hollywood film Snow White and the Huntsman were shot here back in 2011. At high tide, the beach can disappear altogether, but at low tide, there’s a large expanse of sand offering plenty of room.

If you’re planning to visit, check out the tide times to make sure you’ve plenty of beach to play on and that you don’t get cut off by the incoming tide. There is a National Trust car park located next to the café Runawaysklin (a fantastic little café which you should definitely stop by) which costs £5 a day. From here it’s a half a mile walk to the beach.

Church Door Cove & Shrinkle Haven

Church door cove is one of Pembrokeshire many geological wonders scattered across it’s rugged coastline. 

The cove is amphitheatre-shaped bowl with a magnificent door shaped arch, which has been cut into the towering cliffs by the forces of the ocean. At mid to high tide the beach becomes cut off and consists of mainly large boulders, but as the tide drops away a beautiful, sheltered stretch of golden sand is revealed. 

Next door to church door cove are the golden sands of Shrinkle Haven beach. Unfortunately the steps leading down to the beach have been fenced off.

The bay is now only accessible at low tide from Church door cove by either walking around the thin limestone headland or scrambling through a narrow and slippery cave. Be extremely careful if undertaking this trip as this beach will quickly get cut off by the tide, and you’ll either have to swim back around or wait 8 hours for the tide to retreat. 

Free parking is available either at Manorbier YHA, postcode SA70 7TT, or 500m further along the road, situated on the cliff top adjacent to the coastal path. From either car park, the beach is easily accessible via a short walk which leads to the steep concrete and metal steps (140 in total) that drops down onto the bay. 

Strumble Head - Garn Fawr and Strumble lighthouse

Garn Fawr is an old Iron age Hill fort on the north coast of Pembrokeshire. The Summit offers spectacular 360 panoramic views across the northern coastline and back south over the Preseli hills. Free parking is available to the east of the Garn Fawr Hill fort in a small car park (nearest postcode is SA64 0JJ). From here you can reach the summit via a short 300m moderate incline which isn’t at all challenging.

From here you can continue to drive for a further 5 minutes over towards Strumble lighthouse which is situated is on the North West tip of Pembrokeshire, west of Fishguard. The lighthouse stands on Ynys Meicel, also known as Strumble Head, a tiny rocky island that can only be reached by a small suspension bridge. The Lighthouse is automated now so there isn’t any access onto the island. In all honesty, this lighthouse didn’t do much for me, but its proximity to Garn Fawr means it’s worth stopping by.

Final Thoughts

So there we have it, my guide to my favourite Locations in Pembrokeshire. The good news is that many of these locations are grouped quite close together making it easy to visit several of the best spots in a day.

I was going to pick my favourite three locations it would be Blue Lagoon, which I’d combine with a walk to Porthgain. This is an absolutely stunning section of coastline which you can spend a couple of hours or easily an entire day at. If you are doing both, make sure to park at Porthgain so you can grab a well earned pint and bite to eat afterwards.

Secondly it would be Broadhaven South & Bosherton Lilley Ponds with an extension to visit the beautiful Barafundle bay. This walk would take in two of the best beaches in Pembrokeshire whilst also providing an opportunity to stretch your legs on some magnificent sections of the Pembrokeshire coastal path. again you could spend a few hours doing this walk or take the whole day to soak it all in.

From Bosherton you can also make a quick pitstop at St Govans Chapel, and providing the road is open the Green Bridge of Wales. Both are two of the most impressive features in Pembrokeshire are very close to Bosherton and can be visited in under an hour.

Finally I’d choose St Davids Peninsula as there’s a whole host of things to see and do there. Whitesands and Carn Llidi would be the priority but you can also take the time to explore the city of St Davids, Porthclais harbour, St Justinian’s Lifeboat station.

Like I mentioned previously, this list isn’t exclusive and there’s plenty of other magical spots out there waiting to be visited.

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For more travel, & photography inspiration around Wales check out my in-depth guides to each of my favourite regions below.

• Guide to the Brecon Beacons

• Guide to the Gower Peninsula

• Guide to the Elan Valley

• Guide to Pembrokeshire

• Guide to Snowdonia

• Guide to Wales