Hiking Across Madeira: A 5 Day Coast to Coast Adventure
In May 2026, I had the privilege of hiking 114 kilometres across the island of Madeira over five incredible days.
I have hiked all over the world, across many different countries and continents, but those five days in Madeira were genuinely some of the best hiking days I have ever had.
The route is called The Madeira trail and encompassed everything which is so special about the Island of Madeira. I was as wild, varied, challenging and unbelievably scenic, passing through landscapes that felt completely different from one day to the next.
Starting on the north west coast and and finishing on the east coast, the trail crossed lush levadas, ancient forests, UNESCO World Heritage landscapes, remote valleys, countless waterfalls, rugged mountain passes and some of the most dramatic volcanic scenery in Europe.
Most days we covered between 20km and 27km, usually taking between 6 and 9 hours. The trails were generally well marked, good underfoot and easy to follow, but that does not mean they were easy.
Madeira is a volcanic, mountainous island, and the trails are often steep. There are a lot of steps, long climbs and tough descents, which means the hiking can take its toll and the days can be slow moving. But that is not always a bad thing. When the scenery is this good, you do not really want to rush through it anyway.
In total, our hike involved nearly 5,500m of elevation gain, linking together coastlines, forests, mountains, villages and levadas as we made our way across the island on foot.
In this blog, I’ll run through my full experience of hiking across Madeira, including the route I took, how difficult it was, the company I organised it with, and what the five days were actually like. Hopefully it gives you a useful insight into just how beautiful hiking across Madeira can be, and maybe even inspires you to give it a go yourself.
What is The MADEIRA Trail
The route I followed was called the Madeira Trail, a unique 5 day, self guided trail organised by Travelbase.
It combines the best sections of the newly opened GR1 Trail with some of the most scenic sections of the northern coastline.
Starting in Ribeira da Janela on the north west coast, the route initially follows part of the new GR1 trail eastwards, climbing through Madeira’s interior towards Pico Ruivo, the highest point on the island. From there, it drops back down towards the north coast, before following some of Madeira’s most dramatic coastal paths towards Machico.
The total distance of the hike will vary depending on the individual, they route choices, and any trail closures/detours that they may encounter. It can vary from 80km up to 115km
In total, my watch recorded 113.4km and 5,469m of ascent across the 5 day route. With the additional side hike we added, the total distance topped 120km, with nearly 6,000m of elevation gain.
The trek passes through some of the most iconic, varied and scenic parts of Madeira, including Fanal Forest, Rabaçal, Encumeada and Pico Ruivo, before heading along some of the most beautiful sections of the north coast, including Santana, Faial, Porto da Cruz and Boca do Risco.
The route does not include the classic PR1 “Pico to Pico” hike between Pico do Areeiro and Pico Ruivo, but I do not think that is a bad thing. I’ll explain why below.
How does the MAdeira Trail work?
The Madeira Trail is a self guided hiking trip organised by Travelbase, an adventure travel company that runs self guided and small group trips across Europe and beyond.
The Madeira Trail takes care of the main logistics, including the route, accommodation, transfers, navigation and support. You are also given access to a well built, user friendly interactive app, which has the route and all the information you need.
There is no guide walking in front of you all day. It is essentially up to you to get from A to B each day. You can choose to hike at your own pace, join up with others in the group and even choose to take small detours from the route.
You are part of a small group, with a maximum of 10 people per group, so you can choose to team up with other hikers or walk more independently. You have the freedom of a self guided trip, but with other people around if you want company on the trail.
At the start of the trip, you are given a briefing by a member of the support team, who then remains available to contact throughout the hike. Each day, they also send a briefing by message, with useful information about the next stage, route notes and anything you need to be aware of.
You also have 5 nights of accommodation sorted for you along the route. I will say that some of these locations are very special, and they added to the experience of the trip. We stayed in a forest nature café, and the balcony views somehow continued to get better. Breakfast is included at each location, and you can pay to add packed lunches and dinners.
Think of it as an independent thru hike with the stressful bits removed. You still have to do the walking. You still have to manage your effort, your kit, the weather, the climbs and the descents. But you are not spending your evenings trying to work out where to sleep, how to reach the next trailhead, or whether you have accidentally planned yourself into a logistical nightmare.
Even better, you do not have to worry quite so much about being caught out by the weather and sleeping in the cold and wet. At the end of each day, you have a warm bed and a hot shower waiting for you, much to the dismay of some of the other thru hikers we passed along the way.
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This was the second time I have done a self guided hiking trip with Travelbase, and honestly, I cannot fault either experience. Everything has run smoothly, the accommodation has been spot on, and the communication has been excellent throughout.
For me, it combines everything I want from a hiking trip. You still get the adventure, challenge and freedom of hiking independently, but without a lot of the logistical stress and uncertainty that comes with planning a thru hike yourself.
What I liked most was that it allowed me to focus on the actual hiking, rather than constantly thinking two steps ahead about accommodation, transfers and route planning. You still have to do the walking, deal with the weather, manage your effort and get from A to B each day, but a lot of the background stress is removed.
The self guided nature of the trip is a big part of the appeal. You are not having your hand held, and you can explore the trail at your own pace. You can hike alone if you want solitude, team up with others if you want company, or do a bit of both depending on the day.
On this trip, I was hiking with my mate George, so I did not need to team up with anyone else. However, on my previous Travelbase trip in the Dolomites, I ended up hiking with another solo hiker for part of the route, which became one of the best parts of the experience.
There is also a really nice social side to the trip in the evenings. After a day on the trail, everyone catches up at the accommodation, shares stories from the day, talks about the route, and bonds over the shared experience. You might start the trip as strangers, but after a few days of long climbs, tired legs, questionable weather and big views, it quickly starts to feel like a small, slightly dysfunctional hiking family.
You do not have to get involved socially if you do not want to, but chances are you will meet some lovely, like-minded people who are there for the same reason as you, to explore an incredible place on foot.
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The new GR1 Madeira Crossing has created a lot of interest around long distance hiking in Madeira, and for good reason. A signed route across the island is exactly the sort of thing Madeira should be known for.
Throughout the route, I passed countless shiny new GR1 signs, and for the first few days the Madeira Trail follows a similar line eastwards from Ribeira da Janela towards Pico Ruivo, with a few slight detours along the way.
The big difference comes after Pico Ruivo.
Instead of continuing towards Pico do Areeiro and following the famous PR1 “Pico to Pico” route, the Madeira Trail drops back down towards the north coast. From there, it follows some of the wilder, quieter and more dramatic coastal scenery on the island.
For me, the stretch between São Jorge, Porto da Cruz, Boca do Risco and the north east coast was one of the highlights of the entire trip. You get dramatic sea cliffs towering above the deep blue Atlantic, wild ocean views, quiet villages, lush green hillsides and a much stronger sense of Madeira’s coastal drama.
This is one of the reasons I think the Madeira Trail has a major advantage over the GR1. It gives you the high mountain crossing, but it also adds a stretch of coastline that many hikers would otherwise miss.
It also avoids relying on PR1, the famous route between Pico do Areeiro and Pico Ruivo. PR1 is spectacular, but it is also extremely popular, narrow, heavily managed and increasingly difficult to plan around.
After being closed for almost two years, PR1 reopened in May 2026 under strict rules and regulations. At the moment, it can only be hiked one way, from Pico do Areeiro to Pico Ruivo, only on Friday, Saturday and Sunday, and during specific access hours.
You also need to book a time slot in advance to get through security, where tickets are checked at the gate. Those tickets can sell out weeks in advance, which makes planning a hike across the island even more stressful. If you cannot get a slot, you either have to detour your route or use transport to get around it.
You can also drive almost to the summit of Pico do Areeiro, which is both a positive and a negative. It makes the viewpoint incredibly accessible, but it also means the area can be absolutely packed with people.
For me, that is the antithesis of what I want from a long distance hike. I go hiking to escape crowds, noise and overmanaged tourist hotspots, not to queue at a gate and squeeze along a narrow path with hundreds of other people.
Alongside skipping PR1, I also think hiking Madeira from west to east is the better direction, which you cannot currently do on the GR1 if you want to include PR1. You get some of the steeper climbing done early, gradually work your way up into the mountains, summit Pico Ruivo, then finish with one of the most scenic sections of coastline on the island.
Another thing I loved about the Madeira Trail was how quiet it felt. I hiked it from Wednesday to Sunday, and for large sections of the route we were completely alone, only passing a handful of people. Granted, it was not peak season, but the trails felt far less travelled than Madeira’s most famous hikes, which added massively to the experience.
That is why I would not describe the Madeira Trail as simply an alternative to the GR1. I would describe it as a more varied way to experience Madeira on foot. It gives you the mountains, levadas, forests, villages and north coast, rather than focusing only on the most obvious spine of the island.
The route
Starting in Ribeira da Janela on the north west coast, the route initially follows part of the new GR1 trail eastwards, climbing through Madeira’s interior towards Pico Ruivo, the highest point on the island. From there, it drops back down towards the north coast, before following some of Madeira’s most dramatic coastal paths towards Machico.
The total distance of the hike will vary depending on the individual, they route choices, and any trail closures/detours that they may encounter. It can vary from 80km up to 115km. With elevation gain and loss varying from 3,500m up to 5,300m.
In total, my watch recorded 113.4km and 5,469m of ascent across the 5 day route. With the additional side hike we added, the total distance topped 120km, with nearly 6,000m of elevation gain.
Please note that we chose to hike the full route, starting at Ribeira da Janela on Day 1, trekking From Encumeadea to Ihla via Pico Ruivo on day 3, and hiking from Santana to Machico on day 5.
This meant our distance was significantly further than the distances advertised on the Travelbase site. Also, I did a lot of walking back and forth each day to film, so this probably added a couple of extra kilometres to the total distance. The curse of trying to film cinematic hiking content.
Below are my stats for each day. The time listed for each day is from the moment we set off to when we arrived at the accommodation, and includes all the stops we had.
Day 1, Ribeira da Janela to Rabaçal: 21km | Ascent: 1,724m | 7 hours
Day 2, Rabaçal to Encumeada: 25.7km | Ascent: 845m | 9 hours
Day 3, Encumeada to Ilha via Pico Ruivo: 23.5km | Ascent: 1,607m | 9 Hours 40 minutes
Day 4, Ilha to Santana: Distance: 14.47km| Ascent: 709m | 6 hours 15 minutes
Side hike to Ponta do Clérigo: 6.75km | Ascent: 462m | 2 hours 30 minutes
Day 5, Santana to Machico: Distance: 26.23km | Ascent: 1,132m | 9 hours
Madeira Trail FAQs
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At the time of writing, the Madeira Trail starts from €815, although prices and optional extras can change, so always check the latest information on the Madeira Trail website before booking.
The package includes the organisation of the route, accommodation, breakfasts, tourist tax for the accommodation, shuttle transfers, a welcome briefing with a ranger, a packing list and access to the Travelbase app.
You also have a few optional extras available, which can make the trip easier depending on how much you want organised in advance:
• Day 1 hotel, €89
• Food package, €139, includes packed lunches and evening meals during the five hiking days
• Hiking pole rental, €12, recommended if you do not have your own
• Luggage transport, useful if you want to reduce the amount you carry on certain stagesThe food package includes breakfast, a packed lunch and dinner. Breakfast is typically bread, jam, cheese or ham, coffee or tea and juice, although it may be served as a buffet depending on the location.
Packed lunches usually include a sandwich, such as ham and cheese, chicken, or roast beef, along with fruit, a small dessert and juice. Dinner is usually local fish or meat at the hotel restaurant, or a buffet depending on the location. A vegetarian option is also available.
The food package is particularly useful because you do not pass many shelters, cafés or restaurants during the first 3 days. The only food options we found were near the accommodation. On Day 3, there is a shelter beneath Pico Ruivo, but it may not always be open. On Days 4 and 5, you pass through more coastal villages, so there are far more options.
I would definitely recommend bringing your own snacks for the hike, especially if you like to eat regularly during long days on the trail. A bag of Haribo or a few chocolate bars can go a long way when you are 6 hours into your day.
The exact hotels and accommodation can vary depending on the date and availability, so I would recommend checking the Madeira Trail website before booking. The route usually includes a mix of hotels, a cottage and a mountain hut, which makes the trip feel much more comfortable than a traditional wild camping style thru hike.
Trail access fees are separate. Madeira now charges access fees for many official PR routes, and payments are made through SIMplifica. Make sure you check the latest trail rules before setting off.
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The Madeira Trail is not technical, but it is physically demanding.
You do not need ropes, climbing skills or alpine experience, but you do need a good level of fitness and the ability to walk for several hours a day over steep, hilly terrain.
Madeira is not a flat island. It is volcanic, rugged and very steep in places, with plenty of steps, climbs and descents that slowly start to nibble away at your legs. Most days we were walking between 6 and 9 hours, and by day three or four you definitely know you are on a multi day hike.
That said, it is very achievable if you already hike regularly and are used to mountain terrain. The trails are generally well marked, the navigation is straightforward with the Travelbase app, and having accommodation sorted each night makes the whole experience much easier than a completely unsupported thru hike.
I would not recommend it as your first ever hiking trip, but if you have done long mountain days before and have a decent level of fitness, you should be fine.
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The public Madeira Trail route is listed at around 85km, but my own route came out longer. My watch recorded 113.4km and 5,469m of ascent across the main 5 day route, plus an extra side hike to Ponta do Clérigo. Distances can vary depending on GPS device, route options, diversions, side hikes and whether you take longer alternatives.
How many days does it take to hike across Madeira?
The Madeira Trail is designed around 5 days of walking, with an arrival day before the hike and a departure day after finishing.
Is the Madeira Trail guided?
No. It is self guided, which means you walk independently rather than following a guide. The route, accommodation, app information and support are organised for you.
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It depends which option you choose.
There is a luggage transport option, where you can have a secondary bag transported from the hotel in Funchal where you have your briefing, to the hotel in Machico where you will spend your final night of the trip.
You will also get access to your secondary bag on nights 3 and 4 of the trek.
Although you don't have access to it during the first two nights of the trip. Choosing the luggage transfer option will allow you to lighten the load of your pack, and to get access to clean clothes and extra snacks after 3 days of trekking.
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The Madeira Trail includes a mix of accommodation, usually including hotels, a cottage and a mountain hut. All the accommodation was very comfortable, had warm showers and some of the most impressive balcony views I have seen. I would actually say the accommodation is one of the reasons the trail feels so special.
Please note the exact accommodation can vary by date and availability, so check the Madeira Trail website before booking.
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Not complete beginners. It is self guided, mountainous, steep and involves walking for several hours a day over 5 consecutive days. If you already hike regularly and have a good level of fitness, you should find it achievable. If you have never done a long mountain day or carried a backpack on hilly terrain, you might struggle. On my Hike aside from me and George everyone was above the age of 40. With several being 50+ and one being 63.
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Yes, there is some flexibility if needed. Although the route is designed to be walked in full, you are able to take shuttles and skip certain sections if you are injured, tired, or simply do not want to complete the full stage.
On our trip, one couple skipped part of Day 2 because one of them had a slight injury. On Day 5, there was also the option to skip the first half of the hike and start from Faial instead, which 6 people in our group chose to do.
The Madeira Trail is still a proper hiking challenge, but you are not completely locked into every kilometre if something crops up.
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Yes, if you have good fitness and hiking experience. Strangely, everyone in my group was over the age of 40, which is not necessarily typical, but it was a good sign of how accessible the trail can be for fit and experienced hikers.
The oldest person in our group was a 63 year old woman who was incredibly fit, and there were also two lovely female friends in their late 40s and early 50s who completed the route.
The Madeira Trail is not about being the youngest or fastest person on the mountain. It is about having the right fitness, mindset and ability to keep moving over several consecutive days.
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Yes, The router passes over serval PR Trail which now require payment and booking through the SIMplifica Portal.
The Madeira trail rangers will give you a list of which trails you will need to book, and you will get reminders to book them.
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No, it does not. The PR1 is now one way from Areeiro to Pico Ruivo., and is only open on weekends (June 2026) Which means it goes in the opposite direction to the Madeira Trail.
I don’t think that is a bad thing because PR1 is extremely popular, harder to book and subject to changing access restrictions.
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Yes. The route visits Pico Ruivo, which is the highest point on Madeira.
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Breakfast is included at each accommodation, and you can add a food package which includes packed lunches and evening meals during the five hiking days.
I would recommend considering it, especially because you do not pass many cafés, shelters or restaurants during the first three days. The only food options we found were usually near the accommodation. On Day 3, there is a shelter beneath Pico Ruivo, but it may not always be open.
On Days 4 and 5, you pass through more coastal villages, so there are far more options.
I would still bring extra snacks for the trail, especially if you like to eat regularly during long days. A bag of Haribo or a few chocolate bars can go a long way when you are 6 hours into the day and questioning every life choice that led you to another climb.
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I would strongly recommend hiking poles for the Madeira Trail.
You can do it without them, but Madeira is steep, and there are a lot of steps, long climbs and tough descents. Over five consecutive days, poles make a big difference, especially on your knees.
If you do not own any, you can rent hiking poles through Travelbase. I would say they are one of the most useful bits of kit you can take.
Tips for hiking in Madeira
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Madeira’s trails can close because of heavy rain, landslides, rockfall, maintenance, wildfire damage or safety restrictions.
Always check the official Visit Madeira trail page for updates , especially for official PR routes. Do not rely only on old blog posts, saved maps or Instagram reels, as trail conditions and access rules can change quickly.
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groups usually start arriving at the popular trailheads from mid morning, and once they arrive, some routes can feel very different.
For levada walks, I think the morning is usually best. If you start early, you can often have the trail almost completely to yourself on the way out, before meeting most people on their return journey.
For mountain hikes, I personally prefer the afternoon, especially if you can time it for sunset. The light is better, the crowds are usually thinner, and you can use Madeira’s webcams during the day to monitor cloud, visibility and conditions before deciding where to go.
I would avoid starting popular hikes between 9:30am and 3pm if possible. Parking will be harder, the trails will be busier and you will be hiking in the hottest part of the day.
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For most Madeira hikes, I would choose trail running shoes or lightweight hiking shoes over bulky hiking boots.
The terrain is steep, rocky and uneven in places, but it is not usually technical enough to need a heavy boot. Because the weather can also be warm and humid, a lighter, breathable shoe will usually be more comfortable over long days.
You can get away with normal running trainers on some easier routes, but they will probably get trashed by Madeira’s dusty, muddy and rocky trails. Grip is the main thing, especially on steep descents, wet levadas and loose paths.
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Phone signal can be unreliable in valleys, forests and mountain areas, so download offline maps before you hike.
Maps.me is a useful free option for offline mapping across the whole island. It shows hiking trails, viewpoints, roads, fuel stations, shops, restaurants and points of interest, so it is handy for both walking and driving.
Another option is WalkMe, a paid Madeira hiking app with many of the island’s popular trails. If you are hiking the Madeira Trail with Travelbase, you will also have access to their app and route information, but I would still have a backup map downloaded just in case.
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Madeira now has a paid reservation system for its official PR hiking trails. The system has been introduced to help manage overcrowding, protect fragile landscapes, improve safety, and spread visitor numbers across busy routes.
All official PR hikes need to be booked through the SIMplifica portal
The standard cost is €4.50 per person, per hike, although PR1 is currently €10.50.
Slots are limited and allocated in 30-minute entry windows.
Bookable time slots generally run from around 07:00 to 18:00.
Always check the official Visit Madeira trail page and the SIMplifica portal before setting off.
Outside of these hours, you may not need a time slot, although PR1 is different as the gate is locked outside of official access times.
Payment is made online. There is no cash payment at the trailhead, and you should keep your digital confirmation or QR code with you.
Madeira residents are exempt from payment and booking.
Multi-day passes are available, including 3-day and 7-day options, but they are only likely to save you money if you plan to hike five or more paid PR trails.
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Madeira’s weather changes quickly. You can have sun on the coast, cloud in the valleys and rain in the mountains, all at the same time.
Before setting off, check the wind, rain forecast, visibility, cloud cover and live webcams. The webcams are especially useful, as they can save you driving across the island only to find your hike completely covered in cloud.
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Do not assume you will pass cafés, shops or shelters on the trail. Some routes have options nearby, but many do not, and opening times can be unreliable.
Take more water than you think you need, especially in the warmer months or if hiking in the middle of the day. A filtration device would be a great addition for those doing Multiday hikes or hiking across the Island
I would also carry plenty of snacks. Madeira’s climbs can be savage, and a bag of Haribo can feel like a lifesaver when your energy levels are running low.
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Madeira is small, but it is seriously steep and full of steps.
A 10km hike in Madeira can feel much harder than a 10km hike somewhere flatter because of the elevation, heat, steps and terrain.
Give yourself more time than you think you need, especially if you are stopping for photos, swimming, or simply standing around wondering how the island manages to be that incredible.
Hiking poles are also a great addition if you have them, especially on Madeira’s steeper trails and long descents.
I use and recommend theLEKI Cross Trail FX Superlite trekking poles. They are incredibly light at around 190g per pole, adjustable in height, fold down small, and use LEKI’s Shark grip system, which makes them comfortable and easy to use over long days on the trail.
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Here’s what I recommend packing (and wearing) to stay comfortable, dry, and ready for most conditions
Clothing and Kit
Long-Sleeved T-Shirt: Either synthetic or Merino to keep the sun off you.
Shorts or Leggings: Madeira is warm most of the year, so I usually hike in synthetic gym shorts. If you prefer more coverage or are tackling high-altitude trails, lightweight leggings or trousers work great too.
Hiking/Running Socks: Go for breathable, quick-drying socks that prevent blisters. Avoid cotton it traps moisture and rubs.
Lightweight Rain Jacket:Madeira’s weather can change in minutes. It might be blazing sun one moment and pouring rain the next. A light waterproof jacket is a must: better to have it and not need it, than need it and not have it.
Hiking Backpack (10–25 litres): A small daypack is ideal. I use and recommend the Deuter Ascender 13 Trail Running Backpack and Deuter Speed light Pro 25
Trail Running Shoes: You don’t need heavy hiking boots for Madeira. I prefer non-waterproof trail shoes, since the island’s climate is hot and they dry faster if you get wet.
Lightweight Mid layer or Fleece: For sunrise and Sunset as it can get cold and windy high up in the mountains
Lightweight trousers or Joggers: Again great to have if you up on the mountains waiting for the sun to rise or set.
Essentials to Pack and Carry
Head Torch:Several levada walks pass through dark tunnels, and a head torch is far better than using your phone light. It’s also essential if you’re hiking for sunrise or sunset as you don’t want to be fumbling down a mountain by phone torchlight.
Suncream, Hat, Sunglasses: Even on cloudy days, UV rays can be strong, especially at altitude.
Plenty of Water and Snacks: Bring at least 1.5–2 litres of water per person on half-day hikes and more if it’s hot. Energy bars, fruit, and nuts are perfect for quick refuelling on the trail.
Power Bank and Charging Cable:
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For a full list of all the current products I use and recommend check out: https://ohwhataknight.co.uk/my-hiking-gear
Day 1, Ribeira da Janela to Rabaçal
After waking up in Funchal at Hotel Enotel Magnolia, we did what any sensible person does before hiking across an entire island, and aggressively made the most of the buffet breakfast.
After breakfast, we had our welcome briefing, where we were given our packed lunch, met the rest of the group, and got the final bits of information before setting off.
To my surprise, the rest of the group was quite a bit older than me and George. I’m 35, George is 26, and the youngest person in the group was 43, with the oldest being 63. This immediately made me wonder whether we were about to be humbled by a group of extremely fit middle-aged hikers. Spoiler, we were.
Once the briefing was finished, we were transported across the island to the north west coast. We chose to be dropped at Ribeira da Janela, as we wanted to say we had properly hiked coast to coast across Madeira.
Being dropped at the coast was optional, with the second drop-off point being Fanal Forest. After the first hour of climbing, I could see exactly why the Madeira Trail offered people the choice to skip it. The section from the coast involves around 1,100m of ascent over the first 9km, with some pretty heinous gradients from the outset. The views are limited and the terrain is not the most exciting, so if you do choose to skip it, you are not missing the most scenic section of the route.
Before setting off, we clambered across the rocky shoreline to get as close to the sea as possible, something George’s long legs struggled with, before taking the obligatory start photos and getting on our way.
Translated as “river of the window”, Ribeira da Janela is home to a unique coastal rock formation and is famous for the window-like opening in the cliffs. It is a beautiful location and a very fitting start point for hiking across the island.
What was considerably less beautiful was the climb we were about to endure. I had driven this road several times before, including the day before we started the hike, and I knew exactly how much of a bastard it was going to be.
The route was savagely steep from the outset, ascending brutal gradients as it zigzagged up through the villages. There was no easing into it, just straight into unrelenting walls of concrete.
After around 2.5km, we finally left the villages behind and entered the lush green forest that Madeira is so famous for. Although the gradient eased slightly, Madeira clearly had no interest in letting us off the hook.
Steep concrete roads were replaced by wooden steps, and the route continued to grind its way upwards through the trees. Leg burn aside, it felt amazing to be walking through Madeira’s dense green forest, especially with hardly anyone else around
After nearly 3 hours, 9km and 1,110m of ascent, we finally reached Fanal Forest.
Fanal is part of Madeira’s ancient Laurissilva Forest, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is famous for its twisted, moss-covered laurel trees, which look like they belong in a fairytale. When the mist rolls in, it can be one of the most atmospheric and magical places on the island.
Unfortunately, on this visit, Fanal had decided to be annoyingly pleasant. Instead of the dramatic fog it is famous for, we were greeted with blue skies.
That said, it still looked beautiful. But the photos I had taken there previously show just how special it can be when the forest is swallowed by mist.
Fanal was also the first place where we encountered proper crowds. It is one of the main hotspots on the island, and as you can drive to the edge of the forest, it is rarely quiet.
After a brief lunch stop and the first of many strange photos we would take across the trip, we cracked on, knowing we still had another 12km of walking ahead of us.
The route began by climbing up and over the plateau, which became increasingly atmospheric as mist collected on one side of the valley.
At around 1,300m, we were treated to stupendous views down into the lush green valleys below.
It was also the first time we caught sight of our accommodation. In the distance was a small white building tucked away in a sea of green. It looked almost impossibly remote, surrounded by steep slopes, forest and deep valley scenery.
We soaked in the views, before beggining the steep descent down into the forest. At this point, George was seriously regretting being 6 foot 5, as he had to constantly bob and weave beneath the endless branches stretching across the trail. For me, it was atmospheric. For him, it was became a full-body obstacle course.
After what felt like descending for an eternity, the path eventually levelled out and we passed by the incredible 25 Fontes waterfall. Even at 5pm, it was still busy with day hikers, and because we were on a slight time schedule, we did not have the chance to stop for a refreshing swim.
From there, we continued along a mixture of lush levadas, forest paths and short rocky climbs for the final few kilometres towards our accommodation.
Thankfully, we made it to Rabaçal Nature Spot Café about 15 minutes before it closed. After 21km and more than 1,700m of elevation gain, I am not sure anything has ever tasted better than that ice cream and cider on the terrace.
Rabaçal Nature Spot Café was a truly magical place to spend the evening.
Located in a steep-sided green valley, it was easily one of the most scenic places I have ever spent the night. Enveloped by mountains and surrounded by dense greenery, it looks out towards a valley that feels like it belongs in a Jurassic Park film.
Inside, the accommodation was just as impressive. The rooms were modern, well furnished and incredibly comfortable. Alongside our own bedrooms, which had hot showers, we had a spacious communal area with a kitchen, dining space and lounge.
We finished the day with a three-course meal provided by the accommodation, before I headed out onto the balcony to enjoy sunset over the valley.
Day 1 was officially in the books, and Madeira had not eased us in gently. But it had made one hell of a first impression.
Day 2, Rabaçal to Encumeada
I awoke from a very to birdsong and a ridiculous view from the terrace. George and I sat outside with a coffee, quietly pretending our legs were not already feeling the effects of Day 1, before setting off for day 2.
we started the day by cutting through lush green forest and skirting high above the valley floor. After 2km we decided to take our first detour of the trip down to one of the most beautiful waterfalls in Madeira.
Enveloped by steep-sided green valleys, Lagoa do Vento sits in a narrow gorge, high above Risco Waterfall. The narrow waterfall plunges around 80m into a turquoise pool and is one of those places that feels far bigger and wilder than the photos make it look.
Alongside being able to stand behind the waterfall, you can also swim beneath it. After the disappointment of not swimming the day before, and knowing we might not get another opportunity, me and George decided to have an early morning dip.
Refreshing would be an understatement, however as we had a decent crowd of people watching, we both put on a brave face, despite temporarily changing genders.
In total we spent a good hour at Lagoa Do Vento, capturing content, soaking in the scenery and trying to regain feeling in our nether regions.
We quickly warmed back up as we made the steep climb out of the valley and up towards the Paul da Serra plateau.
The route was a mixture of levadas, forest paths and short, punchy climbs. More waterfalls and plunge pools appeared along the way as we steadily regained elevation and climbed above the tree line.
Eventually, the trees gave way to the open expanse of Paul da Serra, Madeira’s largest and highest plateau, sitting at around 1,500m above sea level. On a clear day, it can offer huge views across the island. Unfortunately, Madeira had other ideas. Low cloud rolled in and completely robbed us of the views.
We had driven across the plateau two nights earlier to visit Bica da Cana for sunset, where we were treated to an insane cloud inversion, so we were not too upset. Madeira had already shown us what this part of the island could do when the conditions played ball.
After a brief lunch stop at one of the designated campsites, we branched off the GR1, dropped down beneath the plateau and joined up with PR17.
Caminho do Pináculo e Folhadal is an incredibly scenic hiking route which skirts along the mountainside. The trail partly follows a levada and passes several waterfalls and tunnels, the longest of which is around 1km.
Compared with the morning, this section felt wilder, quieter and far more dramatic. We only passed a dozen or so people all afternoon, which made it feel like we had stumbled onto one of Madeira’s secret back routes. Waterfalls cascaded onto the path, cloud drifted in and out of the valley, and the whole place had a moody, cinematic atmosphere that added to the allure of the trail.
The highlight of the day had to be the narrow section of path which protruded from the forest-covered, steep-sided valley. Like nature’s catwalk, it had dramatic drops on either side, with incredible views over the mountains and down towards the coast.
The mist never really cleared, and after watching George bash his head on a few more tunnels, we completed the final kilometres of Day 2 in light drizzle.
Eventually, PR17 spat us out onto the Encumeada Pass, where we stopped at a café for a well-earned refuel. You are given lunch each day by the hotel you stay in, but as we were racking up the kilometres, we were always on the lookout for an extra bit of sustenance.
At the café, we sat with five other thru hikers who were also hiking across Madeira and dealing with the same frustrations around the recently opened GR1: trail closures, limited route information and unclear camping logistics.
What’s more, nobody had seen anyone checking permits or trail tickets, and several of them had been forced to take a taxi around the PR1 closure.
Understandably, they were also slightly jealous that we had a hotel waiting for us that evening, especially as the weather had taken a turn and we were now engulfed by cloud and mist.
From the café, we descended the final kilometre down a heinously steep road to our hotel for the evening. Unfortunately, this was the same road we would have to hike back up the next morning. A lovely little gift for the quads.
By the end of the day, we had covered nearly 26km with around 850m of elevation gain in just under 9 hours.
By the end of the day, we had covered nearly 26km, with around 850m of elevation gain, in just under 9 hours.
Valley View looks out towards the central mountains of Madeira and has one of the best balcony views I have ever seen. Mist hid most of it when we arrived, but the view the next morning was something special.
Although the hotel could do with a lick of paint, the bedroom was comfortable, the shower was powerful, and after hiking nearly 50km over the first two days, the buffet stood absolutely no chance.
Day 3, Encumeada to Ilha via Pico Ruivo
woke to the sound of birds tweeting and George snoring, which felt like a fittingly poetic start to what would become one of the best hiking days I have ever had.
The mist had partly cleared from the night before, revealing a stupendous mountain view from the hotel. Beautiful, yes, but also slightly daunting when you know you are about to climb up into those very mountains
Today was set to be one of the toughest and longest days of the route, but also the most scenic and rewarding.
Naturally, we once again exploited another buffet breakfast before getting on our way.
Unfortunately, the day began by reascending the road section back to the saddle we had descended the night before, which was a deeply unpleasant way to wake the quads. Nothing says “good morning” quite like 30% Tarmacked roads which you had descended the night before
Before long we had linked up with PR1.3.
According to the website was still listed as closed. However, it had formed part of the Madeira Island Ultra Trail just a few days earlier, where several hundreds runners had been sent across the route. Alongside the fact that the gate was open and there were no closed signs on the trail, we decided to chance hiking it.
And I am very glad we did, as not only was the trail was in great shape and well cleared, but the views were absolutely stupendous.
This section of the trail felt like a cross between Temple Run, Jurassic Park, and Avatar. Steep rocky steps led us up into the mountains and along narrow paths, while the mist rolled in and out of the valleys around us. It was majestical
Me and George were absolutely frothing at the scenery and spent far too much time running back and forth to film. The views into the valley, over the coast and towards Pico Grande were incredible, and every time we put the cameras away, the trail seemed to reveal another ridiculous angle.
Eventually, we climbed up to a saddle beneath Pico Jorge, where the next section of the route quite literally blew us away
junction which splits to Pico Grande
A narrow path weaved its way between the mountains and along the side of the cliffs, which dropped sharply into the valley below. There were more layers than your nan’s Vienetta ice cream. The trail was virtually empty, which made the whole thing feel even more special.
The route undulated along the mountainside as cloud rolled in and out. It honestly felt like we were on a quest to destroy the ring, except with more camera gear and more appropriate footwear choices…
Between Pico Jorge and Boca das Torrinhas, the trail had not been fully restored. It was slightly overgrown and less maintained than the previous section, but in the conditions we had, I would not describe it as dangerous. That said, caution is definitely advised. I would recommend poles and good footwear, as there are some steep drops down into the valley.
We passed a dozen or so people going in both directions, some coming up from Curral das Freiras via Boca das Torrinhas, and others walking PR1.3 in either direction.
From Boca das Torrinhas, the path returned to being fully restored and well signposted, with new GR1 signs along the way. The Madeira Island Ultra Trail route had gone from Encumeada to the saddle near Pico Jorge, across to Pico Grande, down to Curral das Freiras, then back up to Boca das Torrinhas and on towards Pico Ruivo. Because of that, these sections of the trail appeared to have been fully cleared and restored.
Once again, the route continued to amaze as we weaved around the mountains.
Mist hugged one side of the valley, and the charred trees which covered either side of the trail were a stark reminder of the devastation caused two years earlier. They also made parts of the route feel like we had accidentally wandered into a scene from Mad Max.
Eventually, we passed beneath the central peaks of PR1 before tackling one final climb up to Pico Ruivo, the highest point in Madeira,
The cloud rolled in and the views were obstructed, but after experiencing one of the best sections of hiking I have ever done, I wasn’t too upset.
I had also visited Pico Ruivo three times before and been lucky enough to witness two sunset inversions, so it was always going to take something fairly spectacular to top that.
We soaked in what was left of the views and after purchasing a very expensive but much-needed Lion bar and can of Sprite from the refuge, we began the steep descent down into Ilha.
A prior sunset inversion from Pico Ruivo
As soon as we branched off PR1.2 the route became delightfully quiet. We passed half a dozen people during the descent as the path cut steeply down through the trees. The descent was beautiful but brutal and by this point in the day my legs were definitely feeling it.
23.5km, 1,607m of ascent,and 9 hours 37 minutes after setting off, we had reached our accommodation in Ilha
A quick shower was followed by the important business of eating. The family-run guesthouse was incredibly welcoming, and the food was spot on. Garlic pork skewers and unlimited chips, which after a day like that felt like Michelin-starred cuisine.
We caught up with the other hikers, swapped stories from the day, then settled down for the night after another huge day in the mountains.
This was the first night where me and George shared a room with another hiker on the trip, although we all had our own beds and plenty of space. After a day like that, I did not need anything fancy. A warm shower, a comfortable bed and a massive plate of food were more than enough.
Day 4, Ilha to Santana
A slower morning was very much welcomed after the monster that was day 3. We tucked into another buffet breakfast, collected our packed lunches and eventually got ourselves moving.
The route began by descending towards the coastline, cutting through orchards, steep green valleys and past abandoned buildings. After the big mountain drama of the previous day, it felt like Madeira had switched channels again. Same island, completely different episode.
The sunshine was also out in full force, and my pasty Welsh skin was struggling to cope!
Before long, we made it down to São Jorge, a small village on Madeira’s north coast. This area has a long history, including links to the island’s sugar trade from the 16th century, with the ruins giving the place a dramatic slightly forgotten feel.
A rather steep and savage climb took us back up onto the cliffs. Thankfully we emerged onto an incredibly scenic and slightly ridiculous coastal path, which once again provided silly views down the north east coast.
Steep sided tree lined cliffs plunged into the Atlantic and a monstrous waterfall cascaded from mountainside. I honestly wouldn’t have been surprised if a dinosaur suddenly wandered out from behind a tree (George did have the length to match a Diplodocus).
Welcome to Jurassic Park indeed.
After a quick coffee stop, we called into a supermarket for a much-needed resupply. Since this was the first day where we actually passed through a proper villags, we also decided it would be rude not to stop for a proper hot lunch. Steak, eggs and chips. Elite hiking fuel.
The next stop was Santana, which is famous for its traditional thatched houses. As was the theme of the trip, we took several unserious photos, before pushing onto to our accommodation for the night.
I do not know how the Madeira Trail kept doing it, but this might have been the best balcony view of the entire trip.
Our accomodation was Santana in Nature Bed and Breakfast. Perched between a hairpin bend in the road, the hotel looks up and down the dramatic north coast of a Madeira.
Luckily, our room faced north east, giving us an incredible view towards the more rugged coastline and Ponta de São Lourenço in the distance.
Now, having already hiked nearly 90km over 4 days. Any sensible person would probably have called it a day there. Naturally, we did not. We set off for a second hike before dinner to Ponta do Clérigo.
From the hotel, the route passed through a tunnel, followed a dramatic levada, then dropped steeply down a gravel road almost to the ocean. Eventually, we emerged onto a narrow strip of rock that fell sharply away towards the sea.
Huge views stretch up and down the northern coastline, with cliffs, ocean and green hillsides all fighting for attention. You definitely need a head for heights if you want to reach the end, and there is a little bit of scrambling involved, so it is not one to rush.
With dinner approaching, we made haste back to the hotel, where a three-course meal was waiting. After being on an Island in the middle of the ocean, I finally got the chance to have some seafood, and the tuna steak went down extremely well.
Naturally, me and George doubled up on dessert before heading to the rooftop hot tub just in time or sunset. With the side hike included, we had once again topped 20km for the day, so the hot soak felt like a well earned treat.
Day 5, Santana to Machico
We woke to our first half decent sunrise of the trip, as a big ball of orange tried its best to break through the low cloud above the north coast. Being able to see it from our balcony was a spectacular way to begin the final day of the Madeira Trail.
Downstairs, we tucked into another buffet breakfast, before returning to the balcony to enjoy the view with a coffee and a pain au chocolat. The breakfast of champions.
Six people in the group had decided to take the shuttle and skip the first 10km of the route, so we waved them off and began the final day of hiking across Madeira at a much more leisurely pace.
The sun was out, the birds were tweeting, and the views were phenomenal as we dropped back down towards sea level.
After a refreshing river crossing, the first proper climb of the day began.
Our decision to set off at 10:30am at a very leisurely pace was a regrettable one, as we hit the steep climb in the full heat of the midday sun.
With very little wind, heavy legs and 90km of hiking in the legs it was brutal. Energy was low, the climb was relentless, and the dementors were very much circling as we ground our way up towards the forest-covered peak.
The views from the actual summit were not quite as impressive as I had hoped, but a small detour quickly changed that.
We emerged from the trees and suddenly the view opened up. Faial sat beneath us, the rest of the route stretched out ahead, and Madeira’s lush, rugged coastline rolled away into the distance. After a sweaty, morale-testing climb, it was exactly the boost we needed.
Another steep descent back to sea level followed, and as we were passing through Faial, we decided not to pass up the chance of a hot lunch. We stopped at a small local snack bar where only one member of staff spoke English, and the only decision we could make was what filling we wanted in our €4.50 sandwich. Turns out, they were absolutely delicious, so naturally we had two each.
A quick mini mart stop followed for ice cream and extra snacks, before beginning the final 12km of the route.
This next section climbed up and around Boca do Risco, a dramatic narrow trail which skirts along the side of the cliffs. It was impressive looking back on Faial and the Eagles nest, thinking that we had been up on top of it a few hours earlier.
The trail around to Boca Da Risco has to be one of the most spectacular yet accessible coastal walks in Madeira. Huge drops, towering sea cliffs and stupendous views stretched along the coastline. Even the low cloud could not spoil it.
After several days of forests, mountains, levadas and valleys, this final coastal section felt like Madeira giving us one last reminder of just how beautiful and varied the island is.
From Boca do Risco, we veered off the coastal cliff path and dropped down through the terraced valleys towards Machico. By this point, the end was close and the legs were definitely ready for a well earned rest.
We reached the beach and after the obligatory silly finish-line photos we got straight into the sea.
Another mega day in the books and the Madeira Trail was officially completed.
We then made a the short walk to the hotel, which overlooked the beach, where we caught up with the rest of the group and went to town on one final evening buffet.
Final Thoughts
Having visited Madeira twice before, including once on my honeymoon, I already knew how special the island was. But hiking across it over five days showed me a completely different side of Madeira, and somehow made me love it even more.
This trip had everything I love about hiking. Long days, tired legs, ridiculous views, quiet trails, good company and the constant feeling that Madeira was showing off at every opportunity.
The real standout was the route itself. The variety is ridiculous.
One day you are climbing through ancient forest, the next you are crossing misty mountain ridgelines, then suddenly you are following dramatic coastal paths high above the Atlantic. It felt like walking through a different version of Madeira every single day.
Doing it with George made the whole thing even better. We laughed our way across the island, chatted complete nonsense for hours, and also shared those long quiet stretches of trail where nobody needs to say anything. That is rare in a hiking partner, and probably even rarer when you have spent five days walking, filming and slowly losing the ability to form sensible thoughts.
The accommodation added a huge amount to the experience too.
Night one was a nature café tucked away in a lush green valley. Night two had an incredible balcony view looking towards the mountains. Night four somehow raised the bar again with an insane coastal view and rooftop hot tubs. Whoever planned those stays knew exactly what tired hikers needed.
The organisation was spot on as well. Our ranger, Natacha, was brilliant from the initial briefing through to the final day, sending daily updates, useful route information and being readily available if we needed anything.
We also used the luggage transfer, which was great to have. We still carried most things from start to finish, mainly out of sheer stubbornness and for the love of the game, but having access to extra clothes, electronics and additional snacks at the end of each day was very welcome.
The weather also played its part. We had sunshine, mist, low cloud, rain, warmth and everything in between. The cloud did hide some views on Days 2 and 3, but it also added to the atmosphere and made parts of the route feel even more dramatic. Madeira does moody very well!
Not having to carry a sleeping and cook system (hello light pack), or worry about where we were sleeping each night made the whole trip much more enjoyable.
We still got the adventure, the tired legs, the big climbs, and the satisfaction of crossing an island on foot, but with the comfort of a proper bed, a hot shower and food waiting for us at the end of each day.
If you want the feeling of a proper multi-day adventure, but without the full logistical headache of planning every stay, route and transfer yourself, then the Madeira Trail is a brilliant way to experience the island.
For me, hiking across Madeira was one of the best multi-day adventures I have ever done, and I would do it again in a heartbeat. So I hope the photos, my words, and the YouTube video have done the trip justice, and it’s inspired you to give the hike a go yourself.
Madeira Hiking FAQs
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Madeira now has a paid reservation system for its official PR hiking trails. The system has been introduced to help manage overcrowding, protect fragile landscapes, improve safety, and spread visitor numbers across busy routes.
This is done through the official SIMplifica portal, where you select your route, choose a date and time slot, and pay the access fee.
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The standard access fee for many official PR trails is €4.50 per person, per trail. PR1 Vereda do Areeiro is currently more expensive at €10.50 per person. Prices and rules can change, so always check SIMplifica before setting off.
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All trail payments and reservations are made through the official SIMplifica portal
Before you can book a trail, you will need to create a SIMplifica account. This is required for all visitors, including children.
Once your account is set up, the process is straightforward:
Create your account on the SIMplifica portal and log in
Select the PR walking trail you want to hike
Choose the date of your visit
Select an available 30-minute time slot
Enter the details for every visitor in your group, including children
Pay the access fee online, usually €4.50 per person
Check your email for your digital confirmation and QR code
Make sure you save the confirmation before setting off, as you may need to show your QR code on the trail.
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he 2026 reservation system applies to Madeira’s official PR walking trails managed by IFCN. These are the main classified hiking routes across the island.
PR1 - Vereda do Areeiro, to Pedra Rija
PR1.1 - Vereda da Ilha
PR1.2 - Vereda do Pico Ruivo
PR2 - Vereda do Urzal
PR5 - Vereda das Funduras
PR6 - Levada das 25 Fontes
PR6.1 - Levada do Risco
PR6.2 - Levada do Alecrim
PR6.3 - Vereda da Lagoa do Vento
PR6.4 - Levada Velha do Rabaçal
PR6.5 - Vereda do Pico Fernandes
PR6.6 - Vereda do Túnel do Cavalo
PR6.7 - Vereda Câmara de Carga do Rabaçal
PR6.8 - Levada do Paul II
PR8 - Vereda da Ponta de São Lourenço
PR9 - Levada do Caldeirão Verde
PR9.1 - Caldeirão Verde accessible route
PR11 - Vereda dos Balcões
PR12 - Caminho Real da Encumeada
PR13 - Vereda do Fanal
PR13.1 - Vereda da Palha Carga
PR14 - Levada dos Cedros
PR15 - Vereda da Ribeira da Janela
PR17 - Caminho do Pináculo e Folhadal
PR18 - Levada do Rei
PR19 - Caminho Real do Paul do Mar
PR21 - Caminho do Norte
PR22 - Vereda do Chão dos Louros
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Bookable time slots generally run from around 07:00 to 18:00, with reservations allocated in 30-minute entry windows. Your time slot is your start window, not the time you need to finish the hike.
For example, if you book the 08:00 slot, you should start the trail during that 30-minute period. You can then complete the hike at your own pace.
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You can chance it, but you risk not being allowed onto the trail.
This is especially important for PR1 Vereda do Areeiro, where tickets are checked and access is controlled by a gate. If you arrive outside your booked slot for the PR1, there is a chance you may be refused entry.
For other PR trails, I am less sure how strictly the time slots are currently being checked, as this seems to vary by route. Witth the most popular hikes being more closely monitored. However, the safest option is to arrive during the 30-minute time window you selected when booking.
You should also factor in parking, especially on popular routes where spaces can fill up quickly. Give yourself enough time to park, get organised and reach the trail entrance before your booked slot starts.
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Yes, PR1 Vereda do Areeiro is part of the reservation system. It is also currently the only gated hike I have personally experienced in Madeira.
You must have a valid ticket for PR1, your ticket will be checked at the entrance, and the gate is locked outside the official access hours. PR1 is also one of the busiest and most changeable routes in Madeira, so check the latest access information carefully before planning your hike.
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Yes, all visitors need to be included in the booking, including children. When reserving a trail, you will need to enter the details for everyone in your group.
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Yes, once you book and pay for a trail, you should receive a digital confirmation and QR code. Save this to your phone or take a screenshot before setting off, as you may be asked to show it on the trail.
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Everything has to be done online and there is no way to pay in person, or with cash, You can try book online when you are at the trailhead but you run the risk of not having signal or the hike being booked up. I would not rely on paying at the trailhead. The safest option is to book online in advance through SIMplifica , especially for popular routes, busy dates or trails with limited entry slots.
For PR1, you should definitely book in advance. It is gated, tickets are checked, and access is controlled.
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You may be fined if you hike an official PR route without a valid reservation or payment where one is required. I haven’t heard of this happening, but you don’t want to be on the receiving end of a fine
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Not always. For most visitors, individual tickets at €4.50 per trail are usually cheaper and more flexible. A pass only really makes sense if you are planning several official PR hikes in a short period.
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Yes. Booking and paying for a trail does not automatically mean conditions will be safe or that every route is fully open. Madeira’s trails can be affected by weather, landslides, maintenance, wildfire damage and safety restrictions. Always check the latest trail status before hiking.
Always check the official Visit Madeira trail page for updates
Also consider checking recent hike reports on All Trails to get an updated state of trail
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If your multi day route uses official PR trails that require payment, you should check and book the relevant trails for each day. That being said, you can start early and risk not booking the.
My passes were not checked on the first three days of my 5 Hike across Madeira between Fanal and Pico Ruivo
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Yes, popular routes and time slots can become unavailable, especially during busy periods. PR1 is likely to be one of the hardest to secure, so book early where possible.
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Choose a realistic entry time based on your transport, start point and walking pace. Do not pick an early slot if you still need to drive across the island, park, or wait for a transfer.
You should also factor in parking. Popular trailheads in Madeira can fill up quickly, so allow enough time to find a space, get ready and reach the trail entrance before your booked slot starts.
For longer routes, avoid booking too late in the day unless you are confident you have enough daylight to finish safely.
For sunrise hikes, check SIMplifica carefully. The earliest bookable slots generally appear to start around 07:00, which may not be early enough for a true sunrise start on some routes.
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Levadas are narrow irrigation channels built to carry water across Madeira, often with walking paths running alongside them. They usually pass through forests, valleys and mountains, and are one of the most unique hiking experiences on the island.
Veredas are traditional mountain trails that often connect villages, viewpoints, ridges and summits. As a general rule, levadas tend to be flatter and easier, while veredas are usually steeper, more exposed and more physically demanding.
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Trail difficulty in Madeira varies a lot.
Some levada walks are gentle and beginner friendly, while others involve narrow paths, tunnels, steep drops and long distances. The veredas and mountain routes are usually more challenging, with bigger climbs, steeper descents and more exposed terrain.
Always check the route distance, elevation gain, weather forecast and trail status before setting off. I would also recommend wearing proper footwear, carrying water, downloading offline maps and allowing more time than you think you need. Madeira is steep, and even short hikes can feel surprisingly tough.
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Yes, most popular hikes in Madeira can be done without a guide.
Many of the official PR trails are well marked and easy to follow, especially if you have offline maps or a GPX route downloaded. All the hikes I have listed in my Madeira hiking guide are straightforward enough to do independently if you are comfortable hiking and prepared for the terrain.
However, if you are planning a remote, exposed or less maintained route, a local guide can be useful for safety, navigation and local knowledge.
Madeira FAQs
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One of the standout attractions of Madeira is its year-round warm weather. The local climate is notably stable, with temperatures seldom falling below 20°C (68°F) or exceeding 30°C (86°F).
That being said the best time to visit Madeira is typically during the spring (March to May) and fall (September to October). During these months, the weather is pleasantly mild, with fewer tourists (although it will never be quiet), making it ideal for outdoor activities like hiking and exploring the beautiful landscape.
Spring offers blooming flowers, lush greenery, and flowing waterfalls, while fall provides warm temperatures and the chance to enjoy local festivals.
The only negatives of visiting in of fall is that the some of the waterfalls will be reduced to a trickle or might have dried up completely. The island is also prone to wildfires throughout summer which can result in some of the hiking trails remaining closed.
I visited twice in October, everyday was sunny with temperatures ranging between 22-30 degrees. The waterfalls however resembled more of trickle and several of the major trails (including PR1) were closed due to previous wildfires which had left them unsafe and damaged
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At a minimum you would need five days. Although the island isn’t big, there are so many unique and interesting things to do and see.
In addition the island incredibly hilly and its roads are ludicrously windy and steep, meaning getting from one side to another takes a lot longer (and more concentration) than expected.
A week would be great however 10 days would be perfect amount of time to truly experience and appreciate Madeira. This duration allows you to explore the island's stunning landscapes, charming towns, and enjoy various activities whilst also have the occasional chilled day.
If you have more time, two weeks can provide a more leisurely experience, with their amount of time you can see all must-visit locations without rushing and having a lazy day at the hotel. You can also take the time to visit the nearby island of Porto Santo.
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Although the climate is notably stable, with temperatures seldom falling below 20°C (68°F) or exceeding 30°C (86°F).
The islands unique geographical location alongside its mountain terrain means that the weather can be unpredictable and frequently changes.
It’s not uncommon to get multiple weather conditions in a single day. It’s also not uncommon for one side of the island to be covered in cloud or raining, and the other to be in glorious sunshine.
The north half of Madeira can be relatively wet, but the south, only receives between 600mm and 1000mm of rain per year. Outside of the relatively wet period, which runs between November and February, rain is an infrequent concern on Madeira.
Alongside monitoring the weather, you can download the Madeira Weather app for up-to-date local forecasts, it’s also worth using the app Windy to check the wind speed and direction.
In addition, Madeira has a dozen or so webcams spread across the entire island. It’s always worth quickly checking these before you leave to see the weather conditions and save a potentially wasted trip
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Your choice of where to stay in Madeira depends on both the length of your visit and what you want to see and do.
Funchal is a good option if you are short on time and want maximum convenience. It has plenty of hotels, restaurants and easy access to tours and excursions. That said, it is very tourist driven, quite busy, and does not really give you the full island experience.
On my two visits, I have stayed in Calheta and Caniço, and I can recommend both. However, if you want to see as much of the island as possible, be prepared to spend a fair amount of time driving.
In Caniço, we stayed at Sentido Galosol, a hotel I would definitely recommend. It is well located for exploring both the east and the central interior without marathon drives. Built into a cliff with direct sea access, it has top notch facilities including a fitness club, wellness centre and a lido built into the sea cliff. Despite its size, it still manages to feel peaceful and uncrowded. The breakfast buffet was also excellent, made even better by watching the sunrise from the terrace with a coffee and croissant in hand.
Calheta is another excellent choice. It is one of the sunniest parts of the island, with a small marina, a handful of good restaurants, and two golden sand beaches sheltered by a large sea wall. It is a great base for exploring the west and northwest, including Paul do Mar, Jardim do Mar and the Fanal Forest.
We stayed at Savoy Saccharum in Calheta for our ten day honeymoon, and it was stunning. The hotel has a beautiful infinity rooftop pool and fantastic facilities, but the drives to the eastern side of the island were long. It took around 60 to 80 minutes each way to reach some of the must see spots, and by the end of the trip we had clocked 1,379 kilometres in the car.
If you are staying for ten days or longer, I would suggest splitting your stay between two bases on opposite ends of the island. It will cut down on driving and let you experience two different sides of Madeira.
My recommendation: spend half your time on the south west coast and the other half on the south east coast. You will cover more ground with fewer hours behind the wheel.
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Where you stay in Madeira depends on how long you are visiting for, whether you have a car, and what you want to do while you are there.
Below are hotels I can personally recommend. I have paid to stay in all of them and have no affiliation with the hotels themselves. However, the links are affiliate Booking.com links, which means I may earn a small commission if you book through them, at no extra cost to you
The Views Baía, Funchal - an adults-only hotel in Funchal with modern, comfortable rooms and great facilities, including a spa. The buffet breakfast was probably one of the best I have ever had, anywhere, and that is saying something. I only stayed here for one night before hiking across Madeira, but the French toast alone was almost worth the price. It was also one of the cheapest good quality hotels I could find in Funchal, which made it a very solid option before starting the Madeira Trail.
Sentido Galosol, Caniço - A great option if you want to explore the east of Madeira and the central interior without doing marathon drives every day. The hotel is built into the cliffs, with direct sea access and excellent facilities, including a fitness club, wellness centre and a lido built into the sea cliff. Despite its size, it still manages to feel peaceful and uncrowded. The breakfast buffet was also excellent, made even better by watching sunrise from the terrace with a coffee and croissant in hand.
Savoy Saccharum, Calheta - We here for our 10 day honeymoon, and it was stunning. The hotel has a beautiful infinity rooftop pool, great facilities and a really polished feel. Calheta is also one of the sunniest parts of Madeira, with a small marina, a handful of good restaurants, and two golden sand beaches sheltered by a large sea wall.It is a great base for exploring the west and north west of the island, including Paul do Mar, Jardim do Mar and Fanal Forest. The main downside is the driving. Reaching the eastern side of the island can take a while, and by the end of our 10 day trip we had clocked 1,379km in the car. Some of the must-see spots took around 60 to 80 minutes each way, so keep that in mind if you want to explore the whole island.
Santana in Nature Bed & Breakfast - I stayed here while hiking across Madeira, and I could not fault it. The balcony view was genuinely one of the best I have ever had from a hotel, and I watched sunrise from there the next morning. It also has three rooftop jacuzzis with brilliant views, which felt like a ridiculous luxury after a long day on the trail. It is not the most modern hotel but the rooms were clean and comfortable. It is also a great base for exploring the north coast, with easy access to Pico Ruivo, São Jorge, Faial and some of Madeira’s most dramatic coastal scenery.
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Technically no, but practically yes.
Buses do exist, but they are limited, infrequent, and not particularly trailhead friendly. Renting a car gives you the freedom to go wherever you want, whenever you want — which is essential in Madeira. There is so much to see and do across the entire island, especially those harder to reach hidden gems and off the beaten track locations.
Having your own car also lets you head out for sunrise missions or stay out for sunset without being restricted by public transport timetables.
When renting a car, go for something small but powerful, as you do not want to spend every incline switching between first and second gear. And if you are not completely confident with clutch control, consider an automatic. Your nerves and your passengers will thank you.
Both times I have visited Madeira, I have rented through Discover Cars. They search both local and international companies to find the best deals, then let you choose the supplier that suits you best, whether that is based on price, reviews or reputation.
You can use my affiliate link below to book your car hire. It comes at no extra cost to you, but helps me keep this website running;
Book your vehicle using Discover Cars
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Not really, it is no different to mainland Portugal. I actually found Madeira very affordable, especially when it comes to drinks.
A bottle of beer usually costs between €1 and €2, while a pint is around €2.50 to €3.50. Coffee ranges from €1 to €3, and a soft drink will generally set you back about €1.50.
Food prices vary depending on where you choose to eat. There are plenty of small snack bars dotted around the island where you can grab a light bite or sandwich for around €2 to €7.
If you are eating in a restaurant, expect to pay between €12 and €20 for a main meal. Portion sizes are generous, and the quality is consistently high, especially if you order fresh fish. Sides usually cost around €3 to €5.
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There is so much to see and do in Madeira, especially if you love the outdoors. Expect waterfalls, hiking trails, levadas, mountains, viewpoints, natural sea pools, history and culture.
Check out my blog on 25 of the best things to see and do in Madeira for a full overview and inspiration for your trip.
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Three of my favourites include:
Risco Waterfall
Cascata dos Anjos
Levada Nova Waterfall
👉 Check out my full guide: 7 Must Visit Waterfalls in Madeira
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Madeira’s mountainous terrain makes it one of the best places in Europe to watch the sunrise. From coastal cliffs to towering peaks, the island’s viewpoints deliver unforgettable mornings. Three of my favourites include:
1. Pico Ruivo - The highest peak in Madeira and an unbeatable spot for sunrise.
2. Ponta de São Lourenço - Perched on the far eastern tip of the island, this rugged peninsula is the first place to catch the morning sun.
3. Bica da Cana - A quiet and underrated viewpoint on the Paul da Serra plateau.
👉 For more ideas and detailed directions, check out my full guide: Best sunrise locations in Madeira
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Madeira’s sunsets are just as impressive as its sunrises, with golden light washing over mountains, cliffs and the open Atlantic. Three of my favourites include:
1. Pico Ruivo - Yes, it is just as magical at sunset.
2. Ponta do Pargo Lighthouse - The westernmost point of the island and one of Madeira’s classic sunset viewpoints.
3. Pico do Arieiro - Easily accessible by car and often above the clouds, Pico do Arieiro offers some of the most dramatic sunsets in Madeira.
👉 Discover more incredible sunset spots here:Best sunset locations in Madeira
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While Madeira is known more for cliffs and coves than endless sandy beaches, the island is full of incredible natural swimming spots and calm bays. Three of my favourites include:
1. Porto Moniz Natural Pools - The most famous swimming spot in Madeira. These volcanic rock pools are filled with crystal-clear Atlantic water and are safe, scenic and perfect for all ages.
2. Seixal Beach - A striking black sand beach surrounded by cliffs and lush green hills.
3. Calheta Beach - One of the few golden sand beaches on the island, with calm, sheltered waters protected by a breakwater. Ideal for swimming, sunbathing and relaxing.
👉 Explore more recommendations in my full guide: Best swimming spots in Madeira
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I created and run this website in order to help inform, amaze, inspire people (for free) to get outside and explore the adventurous side of the UK.
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For more Madeira travel inspiration check out the following blog posts: