Cwm Llwch Horseshoe hike Guide - the Best Route up Pen y Fan
Standing at 886 m (2,907 ft), Pen y Fan is the highest peak in Bannau Brycheiniog (Brecon Beacons) National Park, and hiking it is a must-do experience when visiting South Wales.
If you’re looking for the most scenic and rewarding way to reach the summit, the Cwm Llwch Horseshoe is hard to beat.
This circular route begins on the quieter northern side of the Brecon Beacons, guiding you through a sheltered valley, past waterfalls and the glacial Cwm Llwch lake, before climbing along dramatic ridgelines to summit both Corn Du and Pen y Fan.
Unlike the busier paths from Storey Arms or Pont ar Daf, the Cwm Llwch Horseshoe offers a far more peaceful ascent — perfect if you want to escape the crowds. It’s also an excellent choice for an afternoon hike, with the chance to time your descent for a spectacular Brecon Beacons sunset.
Key Hike Info
Hike Type: Loop
Difficulty: Moderate
Distance: 11km
Elevation Gain: 700m
Estimated Time: 3-5 hours
Terrain: Stony path, Grass, and gravel
Start Point and Parking: Cwm Gwdi National Trust or Nant Cwm Llwch Car Park
where to park?
I would recommend parking ta Cwm Gwdi and completing this loop anti clockwise. This way you start with the short section of road walking.
Limited paid parking is available in Cwm Gwdi National Trust (strangely this isn’t listed on Google). Again, it fills up quickly on weekends so arrive early or in the afternoon.
Additional parking is available at Nant Cwm Llwch Car Park in a rocky and grassy farmers field, again it can fill up quickly on weekends. You can also camp here for £5 per person
The roads to both car parks are single track and very narrow so take care driving them.
What should I wear to hike Pen y fan?
That will depend on the weather, which you should always check before departing. I use MWIS and Met Office and look at;
Feels like temperature at the summit
Chance of Rain
Visibility/ Chance of cloud free peaks
Wind speed
These four things will dictate what you wear and carry. While it is only a short hike, it will be colder and windier at the top than at the car park, so it’s better to carry extra layers/waterproofs just in case.
Essentials
Grippy and stable footwear
I recommend Walking boots from Adidas, My favourite being the Freehiker 2 GTX
Layering system: 2-4 layers for your top half depending on the feels like temperature at the summit )
Base layer (T-shirt)
Mid layer (hoodie)
Outer shell (Wind breaker or waterproof)
Fourth layer in Winter (Insulated jacket)
A Hiking/ Navigation app with the route downloaded for offline use: I use and recommend OS Maps
Other things
Water + snacks
Backpack to carry your spare layers, water, and snacks
Gloves and hat (colder conditions)
Headtorch (If heading up at sunrise or sunset)
Microspikes (in winter)
The route
Starting from the Cwm Gwdi car park, walk back down down the driveway to the road and turn left. Follow the quiet lanes for around 2.3km always until you reach a cattle gate marking the start of the Cwm Llwch valley.
Beyond the gate, a stony track runs beside the Nant Cwm Llwch stream; the path climbs gently through fields and past farm buildings. Pass to the right of a cottage and cross a stile, and you’ll emerge onto open hillside where the path steepens and heads into the glacial valley.
After a short, flatter section, climb up to the glacial lake of Llyn Cwm Llwch and continue steeply to a saddle marked by the Tommy Jones memorial obelisk. Take a moment here to catch your breath and enjoy the views across the western Beacons. From the obelisk, a final steep ascent leads to the summit of Corn Du, where you can look back over the valley and the lake below.
The view looking north west from Corn Du, the Cwm Llwch valley is to the right
After summiting Corn Du, drop down to the saddle and then make the short final climb to the summit of Pen y Fan.
Pause here to soak in the views, the panorama across the Brecon Beacons is spectacular, especially looking east towards Cribyn and the weaving ridgelines of the central peaks.
For the descent, follow the northern ridgeline down and along Cefn Cwm Llwch. Theintial section from Pen y Fan is steep and rocky, but it soon levels out onto a broad grassy ridge.
When descending the wide ridge,tTake your time to turn around and admire the view; you’ll see the sheer north face of Cribyn and sweeping vistas of both the eastern and western Beacons.
The well‑defined path continues north, skirting the crest of the hill, and eventually dropping down more steeply back towards Cwm Gwdi, You’ll pass over a style and through a gate before you get back to the car park.
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Know and plan the Route: Use proper hiking app (I use and recommend OS Maps) and have the route downloaded for offline use
Check the Weather: Always check the weather forecast for the specific peaks and mountain ranges you are planning on hiking. I use MWIS and Met Office
Start Early: Give yourself plenty of daylight to complete the hike.
Know Your Limits: This hike requires a good level of fitness and a head for heights.
Group Up: If possible, hike with others or consider hiring a local guide for extra safety
Wear and carry the correct kit: see below
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The correct kit and equipment are essential when hiking in Scotland.
Sturdy hiking boots with good grip
Waterproof jacket and overtrousers
A layering system (wear/carry a minimum of 3 top half layers, with a 4th in winter)
GPS device with the route downloaded (or Map and compass)
Power bank and charging cable
Headtorch + First aid kit
Plenty of fluids and high-energy snacks
Gloves and a hat for cooler conditions
If it’s winter then crampons, micro spikes, and an ice axe(s) are essential alongside extra clothing. I’d also recommend walking poles and ski goggles.
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Base layers
Smartwool Active hoodie - My go for spring, summer, and autumn hiking.
Smartwool Intraknit Thermal Merino Base Layer 1/4 Zip - My choice in winter and colder weather.
Mid LayersColumbia Triple Canyon Hooded Fleece Jacket- Lightweight, warm, comfy, and stretchy. Everything you need from a mid-layer. It also has elasticated thumb loops, a close-fitting hood, and three zip pockets.
Rab Men's Microlight Alpine Down Jacket - Essential for the colder months, wildcamping, and when you are soaking in the views up on the summit.
Outer shell
Columbia Ampli-Dry III Jacket - Waterproof, lightweight, functional, and packs down small. It also has breathable stretch shell fabric with underarm zipped ventilation.
Lower Half
Footwear
Columbia Montrail Trinity Ag II - The comfiest summer hiking and trail running shoes I have ever worn.
Adidas Terrex Free Hiker 2 GTX - My go to for the wetter months of the year
Columbia Men's Facet 75 Equinox – My go to in Winter, incredibly comfortable, waterproof and warm
Socks
Darn Tough Vermont Van Grizzle Boot socks – My winter sock of choice
Backpacks
Pen y Fan FAQ’s
When is the best time to hike Pen y Fan?
In terms of time of day, sunrise is incredibly beautiful, especially as the sun rises from the east, so you have a view over the ridgelines of the central Beacons. Unfortunately it is incredibly busy at sunrise, with hundreds of people flocking here and the main car park at Pont ar Daf is often full
Because of this I recommend heading up Pen y Fan for sunset, although you dont get as good as a view as sunrise, its still a scenic and beautiful experience. the summit will be significantly quieter (often less than a dozen people) and in my opinion much more enjoyable. Whats more you wont have to get up super early and will easily be able to find a parking space.
If you do head up for sunrise or sunset, pack extra layers and a headtorch.
In terms of seasons, Pen y fan is beautiful year round, however is extra special under a blanket of snow., so hikign it in Winter can be a rewarding experience. Always check the weather forecast on MWIS and Met Office, wear and carry the correct clothing and kit, and consider buying Mini Crampons/ Micro spikes.
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Pen y Fan stands at 886 m (2,907 ft), and is the highest point in Bannau Brycheiniog (Brecon Beacons) National Park and South Wales
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In my opinion it would be the Cwm Llwch Horseshoe. Its incredibly scenic, passes a variety of landscapes and is much quieter than other routes.
If you are looking for the best out and back route then that would be Pen y Fan from Cwm Gwdi via Cefn Cwm Llwch.
If you want to summit multiple peaks (such as Cribyn and Fan y big) then I would recommend the Pen y Fan Horseshoe or the Circuit of the Central Beacons.
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That would be Pen y Fan from Pont ar Daf.
It is the shortest route with the least elevation gain. It is 3,2km one way, climbs steadily to the summit via well built path and involves 454 m of elation gain.
Active children can manage it and should take between 45-90 minutes one way.
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The hardest direct route to the summit of Pen y Fan is from Nant Cwm Llwch, as this has the most elevation gain.
However, the Pen y Fan horseshoe is considered more challenging (14km / 800m of elevation) as it involves summiting other peaks.
If you want a tough day in the hills consider hiking the Circuit of the Central Brecon Beacons (21km / 1,086m of elevation) or the Pen y Fan Six Ways ( 32km, 1,800m Elevation)
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There are National Trust car parks at Pont ar Daf Car Park and Storey Arms (west), Cwm Gwdi National Trust or Nant Cwm Llwch Car Park (noth); You can also park at the Neuadd car Park in the Taf Fechan Forest for the horseshoe.
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Allow 3–8 hours, depending on the route and your fitness. The gentle path from Storey Arms or Pont ar Daf is 4 mi/6.5 km involves 454m of elevation gain and takes 3–4 hours; longer circuits via Cwm Llwch or the Horseshoe Ridge take 5–8 hours
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You can hike Pen y Fan alone. The peak is so busy there will always be another person hiking it. The most popular route is from Pont ar Daf.
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There are no toilets on the mountain or summit; the only toilets are at Pont‑ar‑Daf car park.
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Yes, dogs are welcome but must be on a lead and under control.
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Yes. Pen y Fan is significantly easier than hiking Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon). The routes are musch shorter, less rugged and involve less elevation gain.
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In dry conditions you can hike up Pen y Fan in trainers, especially if you are hiking from Pont ar Daf However in the wetter conditions and winter I would recommend hiking shoes/boots or trail runners with better grip.
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Brecon is the nearest town (about six miles north of the main trailheads), offering shops, cafés and accommodation.
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So there we have it, a guide to hiking Pen y Fan in the Bannau Brycheiniog (Brecon Beacons) National Park.
Did you find the blog useful? If you have any questions or thoughts, leave them in the comments below.
For more hiking inspiration check out my other guides to the Brecon Beacons below.
Central Brecon Beacons
Cwm Llwch Horseshoe
Western Brecon Beacons
Waterfall Country
Eastern Brecon Beacons
